Huahine, French Polynesia--Island Beauty
We took a rustic shuttle bus to the small town of Fare, where we strolled the main street, then had a local lunch along the shore.
Sherpa and I enjoyed a different sort of day on the island of Huahine. Paradise! We anchored off this small, lush island in French Polynesia. According to Tahiti’s travel website:
“The island equivalent to the Garden of Eden, Huahine is an immense tropical jungle thriving with coconut plantations, vanilla orchids, banana groves, breadfruit trees, and watermelon fields. Beyond its lush landscapes and bright blooms, Huahine is also a culturally preserved sanctuary with sacred temples hidden throughout dense vegetation.”
Huahine is part of the Leeward Group of the Society Islands, only a short flight from Papeete (Tahiti). The island is divided into two parts, connected by a bridge: Huahine Nui (the larger part) and Huahine Iti (the smaller part). Anchored in the bay near Maroe, we were on the opposite side of the islands from the main town, Fare. No worries, a shuttle bus provided by locals was available—round-trip rides for 10 USD. Since we didn’t have an excursion until late afternoon, we took advantage of their offer.
A twenty-minute ride on a rustic tourist bus—imagine wooden plank seating in a wooden box with open sides and three very high steps for climbing aboard. Rustic but adequate. (We did have a bit of excitement on our return trip—a lurching stop to avoid an oncoming vehicle, and several of the ship’s crew crunched into us as we all went sliding forward. But I’m here to tell you about our adventures, so it was nothing more than a blip.)
We arrived in Fare, a small town of 1600, and the Islanders greeted us with a round of traditional melodies.
Fare is the community hub of the islands. We visited the bank to exchange our USD for the French Pacific Franc (CFP), the post office to get stamps for postcards to send the grandkids, and the general store for studio supplies—a stapler, a 4-ink pen replacement for the one I recently lost, and a pair of scissors—and a supermarket where we stocked up on Doritos. Sherpa also bought a six-pack of a new-to-him beer, Manuia Island Beer. (I predict a beer-tasting party on the pool deck in the near future.)
The shuttle bus ran every 30 minutes, and we needed to take the return shuttle bus at 1:30 PM to make the 2:30 PM connection for our 4X4 Huanine Nature Tour. This gave us a couple of hours to explore.
We stopped in many small shops and spoke with a dozen French Polynesians. One woman—” I’m 67 years young.”—asked us where we were from as she sewed tiny-girl-sized sundresses from colorful material on a sewing machine that might have been an antique. “US,” we responded. “Where in the US?” she asked. “Chicago,” we replied. “Ah, I know Chicago.” She went on to say her brother has lived in Chicago for 50 years, and she has spent “much time there, but no more. I stay on the island now. My home, my friends.”
By the time we’d made our purchases and finished our conversations, there was just enough time for us to grab cold drinks at a local restaurant. We’re not accustomed to island heat—relentless sun, 90 degrees F, and 65% humidity. We asked the young woman managing the shuttle where we could stop for drinks. “Here!” she responded with enthusiasm. “And eat! Ask for mahi mahi with vanilla sauce.” We didn’t take the time to explain that we just wanted a beer for Sherpa and something cold for me.
However, when we arrived, we found our trivia team friends already seated—a perfect table, too—with a lagoon view, fresh breezes, and shade provided by palm trees. Once seated, we changed our minds and decided to forgo the tour, which would have involved more time on a rustic bus and more heat. We’d already seen quite a lot on our own, so we went for the local food option instead.
Yes, we did order the mahi mahi with vanilla sauce. And although there was no mahi mahi left, we agreeably substituted tuna. We spent a lovely afternoon getting to know our new friends from England while exclaiming to each other just how great the food was. The sauce—made with cream, coconut milk, chicken stock, and vanilla bean—was delicious!
(If you have no idea what a vanilla sauce over fish might taste like, look up “Mahi Mahi with Tahitian Vanilla Sauce.” You’ll thank me.)
The afternoon passed all too quickly. After indulging in a few black pearl purchases at one of the artisanal booths set up near the dock, we boarded the last shuttle and returned to the ship. Just in time for trivia with Cherie and Robert—and a third-place win. Not too bad! Back in our suite, we watched an approaching storm, then ducked inside when the torrential showers descended. Perhaps it was fortunate that we chose a different option for our afternoon. Anyone outside would have gotten drenched!
It wasn’t long before it was time to depart Huahine. This is one of the less-visited French Polynesian islands among tourists, but we found the island lush and beautiful, the people kind and friendly, and the food outstanding. We would happily return to explore the natural and cultural sides of Huahine.
We sailed through a narrow passage and out into the open seas just as the sun was setting over the islands. Perfect!
Although Sherpa had purchased a six-pack of island beer, he wanted to save it for a future beer party with friends, so he reached into his cache for a beer he had bought when we were in Chile.
D’olbek Cerveza, brewed in Coyhaique, Chile, by Belga de la Patagonia, is a lager with an ABV of 4.5%. Sherpa’s Take: “Medium golden color, pronounced malty aroma—which Bo proclaimed was “pure essence of Midwestern bowling alley.” Lightly carbonated, with a very smooth mouthfeel and creamy texture. A toasty flavor with pronounced maltiness that lingers on the palate. Excellent pizza and burger beer. I’d happily enjoy it again. 7.5/10.”
This is one squawky, rather unattractive bird. Fitting that it is also the island nuisance, stealing food, attacking small critters, and generally being a noisy neighbor. It’s the Common Myna and deserves a mention as the newest bird on our Life List.
That’s all from Huahine, French Polynesia. Tomorrow, we’ll be in Raiatea, French Polynesia, if the travel gods are willing.
Paradise indeed! It sounds absolutely stunning, and I love seeing it all through your “eyes” - each day of your trip seems like a vacation all its own! Also, I will be doing a search for your delicious mahi mahi! Also, I was fascinated to see the common myna bird. The only time I’ve ever heard of a myna bird was in a Judy Bloom book!
Bo! Your written word brings me there! I am totally enjoying your cruise, imagining I'm sharing your adventures and Sherpa's beer!