Hakodate, Japan and Onuma National Park

We spent the morning at Onuma National Park, then spent the afternoon in Hakodate, sampling beer at the Hakodate Beer Restaurant and shopping at the Red Brick Warehouses.

May 23, 2025

We went on the 4-hour, Regent-included tour of ONUMA NATIONAL PARK. Onuma was about a half-hour drive from Hakodate via high-speed roads, but still scenic as we headed north along the coast toward the mountains. Once there, we boarded a small tour boat for a 45-minute cruise on Lake Onuma.

HIGHLIGHTS

Cruise the calm waters of volcanically formed Lake Onuma in its namesake national park and watch for birds soaring overhead.
Enjoy a unique perspective of the active volcano Mount Komagatake.
Follow a nature trail through parkland abloom with wildflowers.

Cruise through the serene waters of volcanically formed Lake Onuma in its namesake national park, and then hike along its coast for a different perspective of the natural beauty. Being a volcanic lake, the water is relatively acidic and somewhat uninhabitable for marine creatures. Even so, you may see waterfowl and eagles soaring overhead.

The most dramatic sight in the park is Mount Komagatake, an active volcano that dominates the landscape to the north. Occasionally, smoke plumes from volcanic tremors can be seen spewing from the mountaintop, but significant eruptions are rare.

The cruise was enjoyable. We saw all kinds of birds, just as promised, including a variety of waterfowl—Mandarin Ducks, Falcated Ducks, Mallards, several Mergansers, and an Eastern Spot-billed Duck. Ospreys and Black Kites soared above the lake, and we even spotted an Eastern Marsh Harrier on a nest in the thick brush.

Although Mount Komagatake was hidden in low cloud cover when we arrived, we did catch a glimpse of the sheared-off peak when the clouds shifted.

Enjoy wildflowers and panoramic views of southwestern Hokkaido as you cross the bridges linking the small islands in Lake Onuma.

The mile-plus hike along the lakes and through the forest was a highlight of the excursion. Twelve bridges lined the trail, offering excellent vantage points for birdwatching.

And as promised, there were wildflowers along the trail.

When looking at a map of Onuma National Park, I noticed a small sign with a tiny beer glass symbol—Onuma Brewery. It was only three blocks from where we stood, and with an hour to explore, we happily headed to the brewery. Unfortunately, we were disappointed to find it closed. Fortunately, we stepped into a small restaurant to see if they had any local beer available for take-out. And Sherpa hit the jackpot!

They had five different beers from Onuma Brewery. Sherpa is saving them for a beer tasting on the ship with friends. I hope to write an article titled “Beer Reviews from the North Pacific” soon.

Our guide was informative and kind. He entertained us on the ride back to their ship by teaching us how to fold origami samurai hats.

After dropping off our packages in our room and grabbing a quick bite, we walked into town. Thankfully, it wasn’t more than half a mile because the rain clouds that had threatened most of the day finally let loose. We Googled “brewery near me,” and the Hakodate Beer Restaurant was only a block from our route. We planned to stop after our trip to the Red Brick Warehouses, but when I noticed they closed in the late afternoon, we hurried to get there while they were still open. Sherpa had just enough time for one beer before closing time.

Hakodate IPA, brewed by Hakodate Brewing in Hakodate, Japan. 4.5% ABV.

Sherpa’s Take: This IPA boasts a light golden color. The initial flavor is mild, accompanied by a smooth mouthfeel and medium carbonation. I found it unusual for a beer labeled as an IPA, as the initial taste had leathery, tobacco-like, and dusty notes—not what I would typically expect from an IPA. The hop notes were very low. The aftertaste became more bitter and long-lasting, reminiscent of the bitterness I experience with my third cup of coffee. It wasn’t a pleasant taste—rather lifeless. 3/10

Kanamori Red Brick Warehouses are a collection of red brick structures along the harbor. These commercial warehouses were constructed in 1887 and were once destroyed by a large fire, but were rebuilt. In 1988, they were transformed into a shopping complex. We walked to the shops and discovered a few things of interest.