Bay of Islands, New Zealand

We landed on a new continent, a new country!

Our first glimpse of New Zealand was of the sunrise lighting the mountain ranges near the Bay of Islands. New Zealand! It’s a country we have long dreamed of visiting, and our dreams have now come true.

We chose to explore this destination in the far north of New Zealand independently. The Bay of Islands is a bit of paradise, with 144 islands that attract New Zealanders on holiday, and we visited just towards the end of their summer season. The Mariner was anchored in the bay, so we tendered to the small village of Paihia and stopped at the Visitor Center for maps and two ferry tickets to Russell.

The ferry from Paihia to Russell is a quick twenty-minute ride, and the ferry shuttles back and forth every twenty minutes, a schedule that made our visit super convenient.

It’s impossible to visit the coast of Russell without noticing the gnarled pohutukawa trees! They line the shore and the streets. These ancient giants are historical and cultural treasures that everyone admires. This coastline is part of the Bay of Islands Marine Mammal Sanctuary, with strict rules governing the safe navigation of small boats to protect whales and other mammals.

The Maori presence is not only physical but also palpable. There are reminders everywhere. This small roped-off area is Tikuwai, a sacred site where the ancestors laid and washed their dead before burial.

Close-up of Tikuwai, a sacred site of the Maori.

As we walked along the pathway next to the bay, we noticed the living trees and the trees that are no longer living but have second lives as table pedestals and bench supports.

Russell was the first permanent European settlement in New Zealand and, in the early 1800s, was a place fit only for whalers and traders. Only a ten-minute walk from the ferry dock, the Russell Museum is the place to learn all about the town's 200 years of history.

The Russell Museum has an outdoor display area with wall art and a small seating area featuring bricks from the chimney of Tamati Waka Nene, who was granted this land by treaty in 1866.

Totem poles graced the park-like garden.

This Little Blue Penguin was featured on the front door of the Russell Museum. Though we searched, we never did see this wee penguin, but we did see quite a few new-to-us birds, including dozens of Silver Gulls, a few Variable Oystercatchers, some Tui, and a Little Black Cormorant.

The Russell Museum was small but included some classics, such as this early engraved map of the area and a fifth-sized replica of Captain Cook’s Endeavor.

We had to check out the local grocery store, especially since our friend Natasha told us about the great-priced Manuka Honey. Of course, Sherpa checked out the beer refrigerator and found several locals he wanted to take back to the ship, and I picked up a bag of Doritos.

I have never seen this particular chocolate rice concoction before. Is anyone familiar with this taste treat? Yay or nay?

We enjoyed fish and chips and Sherpa’s Destination Beer at Butterfish Restaurant, a small bayside cafe. Sherpa ordered an on-tap McLeod’s Paradise Pale Ale, brewed in Waipu, Northland, New Zealand.

Sherpa’s Take: a classic pale ale with a beautiful head and a medium amber color. It is moderately carbonated, smooth on the palate, and slightly hoppy. I didn’t find it bitter when I first sipped; it was more fruity and hoppy. Aftertaste, the bitterness was more pronounced and pleasant. 6.5/10. Would buy again.”

As we boarded the ferry to return to Paihia, we noticed the Mariner in the far harbor. Such a pretty little ship!

Next: Bay of Islands. Part II.