On the last day of any cruise, it’s always an early morning start to the day. It was still dark when we woke up and almost immediately stepped out onto our balcony to watch the Seven Seas Mariner glide the final miles of this long journey. We’ve traveled 3900 nautical miles since we left Lisbon, Portugal, 11 days ago.

Captain Abhi maneuvered the ship into her assigned berth at the Miami Cruise Port at 6 AM, right on time. (FYI, Port Miami is the largest cruise port in the world.)

Sunrise! 6:29 AM. Room service coffee and rolls arrived at 6:30 AM. We have enjoyed our daily coffee service — one of the true luxuries for both of us on our cruise. As we have talked to several crew members as they deliver our late-night decaf cappuccino and then bring us our early-morning coffee and muffins, we’ve gotten to know them a bit and heard their stories. (These night shifters work a 7 PM to 7 AM shift with a two-hour break in the middle, and so we often saw the same crew delivering both our night and morning coffee. And always with a smile!) These people are amongst the hardest workers we’ve ever met, dedicated to doing a good job and making their families back home proud of their efforts.

We vacated our room around 7:45 AM, had a quick breakfast at La Veranda, said our goodbyes to officers, crew, and new friends, and then went to the Observation Lounge to wait for our disembarkation call.

We shouldn’t have had to hang around long — we were scheduled to disembark at 8:45, with plenty of time to catch a cab to Fort Lauderdale - Hollywood International Airport. We weren’t in a hurry — we had a 12:35 PM flight to Chicago O’Hare.

To pass the time, we walked the upper deck and noticed that the Mariner was flying the flag of the USA. That’s the first time we’ve seen the Stars and Stripes since we departed San Francisco on April 5th. We’ve enjoyed seeing the flags of the countries of our ports of call hoisted on the ship as we traveled halfway around the world. (The starboard spreader, or the right side of the mast, is always reserved for a “Courtesy Flag,” which is flown when sailing in the territorial waters of a foreign country as a sign of respect.)

At 8:00 AM, the Cruise Director announced a delay. Customs and Immigration would not allow anyone to disembark until all luggage had been removed from the ship and processed through security. From our perch on the Sports Deck, we watched them move the luggage six decks below us. There was a lot of luggage! (World cruisers, of course, tend to travel with more than a couple of suitcases, and we had boarded the Mariner for the last half of the 2026 World Cruise.)

8:15 — same announcement about the delay. 8:30 — same announcement. 8:45 — same announcement. 9:00 — same announcement. Finally, at 9:10 AM, the first groups of passengers were called to disembark. We were not in that first group, but we were now checking our watches frequently.

Finally, at 9:30, even though our Luggage Color and Number hadn’t been called yet, we were concerned enough about the time crunch that we grabbed our carry-ons and went through the ship’s security for the last time. Time had been uncomfortably slipping away, and we no longer had the cushion we’d counted on for an anxiety-free trip to the airport. We identified our luggage, found a porter to assist us with our two large suitcases, two carry-ons, and two duffel bags, and quickly cleared immigration. “Welcome home,” the agent said with a smile as he handed us our passports, marked with a dozen countries’ stamps.

There was a long line at the taxi stand. Of course, there was! Lots of folks looked panicked as they waited. Sherpa and I were in that group. We finally got a cab, and by the time we’d loaded our luggage into the back, it was 10:15 AM. We were an hour and a half “behind schedule.” We had a 45-minute drive to FLL, and boarding for our flight began at 11:45 AM. Doing the math didn’t provide us with much confidence. Maybe there would be a flight delay? The airline’s app said our flight was on time.

Then we got lucky. Our taxi driver got us to the airport in good time, while still driving safely. Once we had hauled all of our luggage into the terminal, a United agent in the baggage check-in area approached us, offered her assistance, and helped us move through the process quickly. (Thank you, Subi!) Another agent helped us get to the gate after a TSA snafu with a water bottle. (Thank you, Vanessa!)

We arrived at the gate, not an hour and change early as we’d originally planned, but as the last passengers were filing down the gangway. We joined the end of the queue, and finally breathed with relief once we were in our seats! Whew!

Moral of the story? The kindness of strangers can make a difference when your original plans fall through the cracks of bureaucracy.

Our plane to Chicago took off two minutes ahead of schedule. (Of course, it did!) We flew over Miami’s coastline, where the city meets the Atlantic Ocean, and began our journey by air after two months of travel by sea. Almost three hours later, we flew over Chicago, where its shoreline met Lake Michigan.

Our second flight, from Chicago to Wisconsin, also departed on time. Wow! That doesn’t often happen. The closer we got to home, the more the land looked like a gigantic, multi-green quilt. Mid-June corn and soybean fields appeared as pale green blocks, while mature alfalfa and wheat fields showed as emerald green squares. This is how most people “see” Wisconsin — from 30,000 feet above the ground. That’s too bad, for the state is one of the nicest places in which to reside.

From a plane’s window, it seems as if the entire state is farmland, but technically, farms account for around 40% of Wisconsin’s total land area. Almost all the farms in the southern half of Wisconsin — about 95% — are family-owned, and not corporate entities. And although the state is famous for its cheeses, only 10% of the farms are dairy farms.

Our daughter picked us up from the airport, and as we drove across town, we commented on the change of scenery. When we’d left town in early April, there was still snow on the ground! A wave of clouds greeted us upon our return. We were home in time to order pizza for supper!

After our crazy scramble at Fort Lauderdale’s Airport, we were grateful that the rest of the trip went smoothly, and we arrived home right on time. We’d been gone 70 days, or exactly 10 weeks. We traveled a total of 16,342 nautical miles over three cruise segments, beginning in Singapore and ending here in Miami. We visited 32 ports of call in 21 countries and 4 continents, plus we took two land tours: a 4-day, 3-night DIY trip in Singapore and our 5-day, 4-night safari to Kruger National Park in South Africa. An amazing journey that we will remember forever!

Next up? A mashup of highlights from our days at sea.

The island has been continuously inhabited by the British since the Sea Venture, captained by George Somers, was shipwrecked here in 1609, an event that inspired Shakespeare’s play The Tempest. Hamilton is the capital and heart of the island. Excellent shopping and dining venues are right on Front Street, opposite the pier. Among the attractions not to miss are: Bermuda Aquarium, Museum & Zoo, all conveniently located in a complex on North Shore Road; St. Peter’s Church, believed to be the oldest Anglican church in the Western hemisphere, and stunning in its simplicity with its rough-hewn pillars, exposed cedar beams, and candlelit chandeliers; and St. Catherine Fort, well-preserved and a great vantage point for photos. — Regent

Pre-Cruise Research:

• Daytime High Temperature: Approximately 77°F to 81°F. (Accurate.)

• Nighttime Low Temperature: 70°F to 73°F.

• Precipitation: The chance of rain is low. (No rain.)

• Humidity: Moderate and comfortable. (It was comfy.)

• Daylight: The sun will rise around 6:13 AM and set around 8:23 PM local time, providing long days for exploration. (So much lovely sunlight.)

We sailed right into downtown Hamilton, passing larger cruise ships that were berthed miles away at the Royal Naval Dockyard on the western tip of the island. Since the Seven Seas Mariner is a smaller ship — about 700 feet in length — we were just small enough to dock in the center of the city, giving us easy access to Front Street, shopping, cultural and historic sites, and plenty of restaurants.

We opted to go on QUINTESSENTIAL ISLAND DRIVE, a 4-hour, Regent-included morning tour to St. George, then spent the rest of the day exploring Hamilton on foot — a plan that worked out well.

Description: Tour picturesque Hamilton as you travel the North Shore Road with the opportunity to view the Governor’s Mansion before crossing through quaint Flatts Village Bridge. This narrow channel, where the waters of Harrington Sound and the Atlantic Ocean merge, makes for a spectacular sight as the tides rush in and create swirling riptides. Carrying on through winding roads to the old town of St. George’s, for your first stop. The history of Bermuda truly begins in St. George’s, the oldest inhabited town of English origin in the New World and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Town Square offers a favorite photo opportunity at the Stocks, beside the Ducking Stool, and at the steps of St. Peter’s Church, the oldest Anglican church in the Western Hemisphere. This enchanting town is lined with cobblestone streets and boasts over 400 years of culture and history. View a wonderful inland lake, Harrington Sound, before arriving at John’s Smiths Bay to pause to take in the sweeping view of Bermuda’s legendary pink-hued beaches. The tour’s final stop, Gibbs Lighthouse, is a picturesque site with spectacular views of the island. A perfect opportunity to capture a truly memorable image before your return to Hamilton and the ship. — Regent

We hopped on a small tour bus with about 18 other guests around 9 AM. Our tour guide was a bit salty, but thoroughly experienced and highly entertaining. He knew how to deliver information with a side of humor and some attitude. The tour was mostly a bus tour with an hour DIY stop in St. George’s, plus two shorter stops at a beach and a lighthouse — a good way for newbies like us to get a feel for the island.

(We were not the only cruise ship in Bermuda — there were two megaships berthed on the other side of the island with a combined passenger count of about 5,000! Because of that, we intentionally avoided booking a tour to the western part of the island, even though the Royal Naval Dockyard & The West End have lots to see and do, thus we never did experience overcrowding.)

As we rode to St. George’s, a drive of about 30 minutes, we passed many sites of interest. One such place was the official residence of the Governor of Bermuda, called the Government House. Following a two-year renovation, the Governor and staff returned there in April. The residence sits on an estate of approximately 33 acres and has more than 30 rooms. Not only is the site nicely landscaped with lawns and bordered by woodland, but it also has stands of protected native cedars, plus fruit orchards, flower and vegetable gardens, and even official beekeeping hives.

Another architectural highlight of Bermuda is not a specific building, but is true about every building on the island. Bermuda’s white, stepped roofs are an ingenious building design intended to harvest rainwater, and are mandated by law. Because Bermuda has no fresh water lakes, rivers, or streams, residents must act as their own water company. Settlers in the 1600s developed this trickle-down design to trap water before it seeped into the highly porous limestone and disappeared. Every building has an underground reservoir where water is stored and further purified before use.

The Town of St. George’s is a small town with a pleasing mix of the old and the new. Founded in 1612, this UNESCO World Heritage Site features 17th-century architecture, narrow winding lanes, and immersive historical reenactments.

It also has new public art, excellent museums, and notable restaurants. One such artwork is “UnSettled Freedom,” a vibrant augmented-reality mural located in King’s Square. Local Bermudian artist Shanna Hollis illustrated this visual timeline of the island, spanning from its discovery in 1505 to its UNESCO designation in 2000.

There’s also some old-style art — this statue, for example. Local sculptor Desmond Fountain crafted the statue of Sir George Somers. Sir George was a naval hero whose ship, the Sea Venture, was blown off course during a hurricane while he was heading to Jamestown, Virginia, and he had to land on these uninhabited islands. Somers and his crew were stranded here for about 9-10 months while they rebuilt their ship. However, before he left, Somers claimed the territory for England. Three years later, the Virginia Company sent 60 settlers to establish the Town of St. George. It’s now the oldest continuously inhabited English-speaking settlement in the Western Hemisphere.

We visited this historic church, a five-minute walk from the main square. St. Peter’s Church was originally built in 1612, soon after the first settlers arrived on the island, and is therefore the oldest continuously used Protestant church in the New World.

A designated UNESCO World Heritage Site, the church has a quintessential Early English Parish style, adapted meticulously for sub-tropical weather.

The current structure dates back to 1713 and was built to replace the original 1612 framework of cedar posts and palmetto thatch, which was destroyed by a hurricane. It’s been repeatedly expanded during the 18th and 19th centuries, and is a fascinating patchwork of early colonial architecture.

The cedar altar, built in 1615, is officially the oldest surviving piece of woodwork in Bermuda. The interior ceiling has a magnificent, exposed timber framework made entirely of dark, endemic Bermuda cedar. I loved the “pew boxes” — those would be useful when attending services with young children, rather like a pew-pen.

This 900-pipe organ, which is only 40 years old, was specially built with metal pipes rather than wood to better survive Bermuda’s climate. It’s a beauty!

There’s a small museum inside the church with a substantial collection of historic texts. A rare 1594 Geneva Bible predates the settlement of Bermuda itself, and there are also several early editions of the King James Bible. The parish meticulously restored these to mark the global 400th anniversary of the text’s translation.

The graveyard to the west of the church was specifically for enslaved people and free Blacks, and today it serves as an historic stop along Bermuda’s African Diaspora Heritage Trail.

The exterior walls are thick and built from hand-hewn Bermuda limestone coated with white stucco to withstand storms. It features the classic layered, lime-washed stone slate roof for water retention, which is required for all Bermudian buildings.

After we visited the church, we walked across the street and checked out the Trustworthy Gift Shop. It’s the retail outlet operated for the Globe Museum, with plenty of locally made Bermudian crafts, books, and heritage-inspired gifts. A far cry from most of the cheap souvenir shops in town! Highly recommended. (If we’d had more time, we would have toured the museum, but with only an hour in St. George’s, our options were limited.)

Such an interesting mix of bright colors and white! Everywhere we looked, we saw eye candy!

Our last stop in town was at the White Horse Restaurant and Pub. Our guide had mentioned that classic Bermudian cocktails — Rum Swizzles and Dark ‘n’ Stormy cocktails made with local Gosling’s rum — were available here, and so we stopped to sample a Swizzle.

We met ship friends at the bar, and all of us enjoyed our Swizzles on the outside patio overlooking the water.

Next stop: Horseshoe Bay Beach, one of the most famous beaches in Bermuda. Supposedly, it has sweeping pink sandy beaches, but the sand is more beige than pink. It does have some tiny pink crystals, if you look carefully, so there is a grain of truth in the statement!

Our last stop before returning to town was at Gibbs’ Hill Lighthouse, one of Bermuda’s most famous landmarks, which stands 117 feet tall on a high hillside. Built in 1846 from imported cast-iron, it’s one of the oldest lighthouses of its kind in the world. The lighthouse is still active today, flashing a powerful beam that ships can see from 40 miles away.

Back in Hamilton, Sherpa and I decided to have lunch, then walk to the historic church and the art gallery. It’s an easy town to explore, although it is built on the side of a hill, and so every sidewalk has a severe tilt.

Lunch first! The Hog Penny Restaurant & Pub is Hamilton’s oldest licensed establishment, and has been welcoming visitors since 1957. Located just off Front Street on Burnaby Hill, this historic, hole-in-the-wall British pub was our first choice for lunch and local beer. We met friends from the ship for food and beverages. The lunch was extraordinarily good bar food — our table shared loaded potato skins, calamari, and pretzel bites, and everything was tasty. Sherpa was less enthusiastic about the beer.

He ordered a flight from Dockyard Brewing. which was advertised as offering “expertly brewed beers at Bermuda’s oldest craft brewery.”

(Left) Whale of a Wheat: 4.3% ABV, N/A IBU. A typical German Hefeweizen. Sherpa’s Take: “Aromatic. Cloudy. Citrusy and lemony.” 4/10

(Right) Trunk Island Pale Ale: 5.7% ABV, N/A IBU. Sherpa’s Take: “Bitter, hoppy, floral.” 6/10

(Center) St. David’s Lager: 5.1% ABV, N/A IBU, Brewed in the Pilsner style. Sherpa’s Take: “Aromatic. Light-bodied. Thin and crisp.” 5.5/10

Overall, Sherpa was disappointed with the beers, citing a lack of complexity in the different styles. But no worries, onward to churches and art!

We climbed a hill, walked a few blocks, and found ourselves outside the formidable Cathedral of the Most Holy Trinity, commonly referred to as the Bermuda Cathedral. Truly, it’s an impressive Gothic Revival structure situated in the center of the city.

In the sanctuary, there’s a splendid, inlaid masonry altar and a highly detailed, carved wall just behind it. The altar screen features intricate sculptures of Christ surrounded by a dozen or so saints.

We’re accustomed to Anglican austerity in their churches, especially when compared to their Roman Catholic counterparts, and so the splendor of this church’s interior was a surprise.

Look what we noticed as we left the rear exit of the cathedral. A sago palm, in bloom!

We walked along Church Street and had strolled only a few blocks from the Cathedral when we arrived at the impressive Hamilton City Hall and Arts Center. This building houses the Bermuda National Gallery, the Bermuda Society of Arts, plus a community theatre. Designed by Bermudian architect Wil Onions, it opened in 1960 and was constructed of cedar and limestone. And the exterior highlight? Its 90-foot clock tower featured a bronze weathervane shaped like the Sea Venture.

The main foyer has double grand wooden staircases, traditional chandeliers, and blue star decorative elements.

We were pleased to greet some old buddies from our kids’ childhood when we entered the art gallery! The Muppets were front and center!

“The Art of Michael K. Frith: From Pencil to Puppet“ is a major career retrospective showcasing the life and work of the legendary Bermudian-born Muppets creative director.

It’s always interesting to discover the source of inspiration for critically acclaimed art. For Frith, he would constantly be aware of using “water as a core element of stories - one that connected the diverse cast of characters in the show, just as catching rainwater from Bermuda rooftops is something that unites the island’s inhabitants.”

“That idea comes from my lying in bed at night as a kid and listening to the music of the water as it ran from the roof, down the pipes, and into the tank. Where so much of the world takes water for granted, in Bermuda, from our earliest days, we’re acutely conscious of how precious it is, and how dependent we all are on it.” — Frith

There were several small galleries with other exhibits. One we especially enjoyed was “A Study in Light & Color: Selections from the David L. White Collection,” an exhibition that spotlighted how 20th-century American Impressionists captured Bermuda’s unique, sun-drenched atmosphere.

Lovely settings, and colorful renditions of landscapes and sights similar to what we had just seen on our cross-island bus tour. A perfect send-off.

Offerings is a colorful art show by Soleé Darrell, set in a small side gallery, though the exhibit was anything but small. The exhibition featured large, vibrant paintings made on velvet fabric.

Once we’d finished walking through the City Hall and Arts Center, we headed back down the hill towards the ship. However, we arrived on Front Street and still had 90 minutes before “back on board!” We’d just sailed for 4 days, and we had two more days of sailing before reaching Miami. What to do? Don’t get on the ship until the last minute, that’s what! We had noticed another restaurant with prominent beer signage across from the Mariner, so that’s where we went. And it was a very good decision. Sherpa found some of the best beer he’s had since leaving Singapore!

We stopped at Flanagan’s, and he had another flight of beers, this time from the local brewery, Bermuda Craft Brewery:

64° WEST American Pale Ale, 5% ABV 45 IBU. A “West Coast”- style ale. Sherpa’s Take: “Golden amber. Slight head. Bubbly with carbonation. Persistent bitter finish.” 7.5/10.

Whitecaps Wheat Beer, 4.4% ABV and 18 IBU. Sherpa’s Take: “Golden color. True to style. Has decent substance.” 8/10.

32° North Hazy Pale Ale, 6.5% ABV and 27 IBU. Sherpa’s Take: “Bold, sharp flavor. Strong, bitter finish.” 8/10.

Harbourside Tripel, a Belgian Tripel, 7% ABV, 29 IBU. Sherpa’s Take: “True to style.” 7.5/10.

It’s rare for Sherpa to sample four beers from a single brewery and rate them all 7.5 or higher. Bermuda Craft Brewery joins the ranks of Odell (Colorado, USA), Working Draft (Wisconsin, USA), 3 Sheeps (Wisconsin, USA), Old Nation (Michigan, USA), Ice Box Brewing Co (New Mexico, USA), and Brewerkz (Singapore).

Okay! We’d whiled away enough time that when we finally made our way up the gangplank and got back on board, we were almost the last passengers to board the ship. Excellent time management. The tugs were ready to help as Captain Abhi propelled the Mariner away from the narrow berth, and we were on our way.

The exit route was as scenic as the morning sail in! Sunlight lit the houses along the Bermudian coasts, the smaller islands’ trees shimmered in the filtered light, and the water was calm. We passed other small vessels as we made our way through the channel and towards the open seas.

Our last stop on our fabulous cruise — Miami, Florida, USA.

It almost didn’t happen. The wedding was planned for mid-afternoon on a sultry June day in western Illinois. Our families had gathered a few days early to take care of the things that needed to be done in that pre-wedding flurry. All the wrapped wedding gifts, which had been arriving by post and special delivery, were piled in a guest bedroom. And that bedroom appeared to be the problem. Because every time I walked into that room and saw all those presents waiting to be opened, I burst into tears. Tears without words. Unstoppable tears.

My mother and my future mother-in-law grew concerned as this continued for a second day, and then a third. They cornered me in that haunted gift-laden bedroom and asked in the kindest of ways, “Do you still want to get married? It isn’t too late to call it off, if that’s what you want.” One of them went so far as to say, “If it’s about returning all these presents, that’s not a concern.”

It wasn’t about the presents. It was about the momentousness of my decision. I was getting married at the age of 22. I was promising to love — and live with — another person for the rest of my days on earth. It seemed like a very big deal. And every time I thought about it, I began to cry. Again.

“No.” I didn’t want to call off the wedding; I didn’t want to postpone the wedding, either. But just because my tears made everyone else deeply uncomfortable, I couldn’t deny all those turbulent emotions. I couldn’t force the tears away. But yes, I still wanted to get married.

To be fair, on the other side of the aisle, while I couldn’t stop crying, Sherpa couldn’t eat all the Burger King fries he’d ordered for his lunch before the wedding. There was an equivalency somewhere in that!

I managed to walk down the aisle in St. Boniface Catholic Church on June 12, 1976, clinging to my father’s arm. I cried the whole way; he wiped a few tears from his face, too. When I finally stood at the altar with my soon-to-be husband, I continued crying. Sherpa told me stupid jokes, thinking that would stop the tears and make me laugh. It didn’t. The thing that eventually stopped my ceaseless sobs was when I finally said, “I do.” As soon as those words were said out loud, followed by the priest’s proclamation that we were lawfully “husband and wife”, my tears ceased. I was fine. We were fine.

But it almost didn’t happen! Sherpa and I met at Northwestern University’s downtown campus. Unlike Northwestern’s main campus in Evanston, the Chicago campus was small. All the students were in professional programs — medical, dental, law, allied health, etc. — and almost everyone lived in the only available student housing, a former-WWII Navy barracks called Abbott Hall. Its only badge of merit was its prestigious address and location — 710 N Lake Shore Drive, overlooking Lake Michigan. We all lived, ate, studied, and even worked together. I applied for a job in the dorm’s cafeteria, because it meant I could eat for free. Sherpa applied for a similar job because it meant he could make extra cash for beer. We both had our priorities, even then.

We knew each other as co-workers, and we saw each other socially through mutual friends. I had recently decided that a serious relationship was not something I was interested in, after the end of a complicated one. I was pursuing a degree in Physical Therapy, and was going to be an independent woman, answering to no one. I didn’t plan on dating while in school, and I certainly wasn’t going to get married. Ever.

Then something unforeseen happened. I had the flu and missed nearly a week of classes. Consequently, instead of leaving for a long-planned weekend to attend the Kentucky Derby with almost everyone in our dorm, I remained in Chicago to catch up on my classwork. Serendipitously, Sherpa had seen the 100th Running of the Derby the year before, and he wasn’t interested in returning so soon. All of our friends were in Kentucky, and Abbott Hall felt deserted. I wasn’t looking forward to a Saturday evening alone after our evening work shifts, so I spontaneously asked Sherpa if he wanted to go to a movie. As friends, of course. He agreed.

That evening, we walked to the Lake Tower Theater to watch Lenny, then we walked to Gino’s for their famous deep-dish pizza. To end the evening, we walked to the Northwestern Rathskeller for a few nightcaps. We pooled our money, set aside a suitable tip, and spent the rest on Heineken and tequila. (Apologies: we were young, 21 and 22, and though we knew better, it seemed like a good idea at the time.)

Let’s finish by mentioning that Sherpa was a gentleman and walked me to my dorm room before we said good night. We offhandedly spoke about “maybe getting together again.” I woke up the next morning and couldn’t stop thinking about him. He was so different from other men I’d dated. He was kind.

A month later, I phoned my mom to tell her I’d met the man I hoped to marry.

After that first not-a-date, things moved rapidly. Since we lived in the same building, worked together in the kitchen, and studied together every night, we saw a lot of each other without the dating-scene-dramas. Our friendship eventually led to dating, almost without us noticing.

I graduated with my Bachelor’s Degree in Physical Therapy in October, 1975. (Sherpa still had almost two more years of law school; he wouldn’t graduate until June of ‘77.) By November, we were discussing a long-term relationship; in December, an engagement ring mysteriously appeared on my Christmas tree, disguised as an ornament. (It took me a while to even notice!) Once I found it, I said yes. We planned a June wedding.

Our friends wondered out loud, “Why so fast?” Both sets of our parents asked, “Why so fast?” It didn’t seem fast to us; it seemed inevitable. We belonged with each other. The two of us together created something bigger, more powerful, more energizing than each of us as individuals.

We set a $1000 budget for our wedding — for the church, the wedding reception, the food, the dress, the flowers, and the photographer. We came in $40 under! To be fair, we married in a small western Illinois city; if we’d had the same affair in the Chicago area, that wouldn’t have been possible.

We went on our five-day honeymoon in the Ozarks — Tan-Tar-A Resort seemed “so fancy” to us. I ordered a Monte Cristo sandwich, and they served it with champagne! Sherpa ordered poolside drinks, and all he had to do was sign the tab. We were so young and inexperienced! Everything — everything! — was amazing. It was all a new adventure!

It seems so long ago, and it seems like it was just yesterday.

When we returned to Chicago, I began a new physical therapy job at a huge teaching hospital there. Sherpa finished law school the next year. We job-searched in the Midwest — I wanted to leave Chicago; I didn’t want to raise a family in such a huge metropolis. We found exciting jobs in Milwaukee and moved there in 1977. Since then, we’ve called Wisconsin our home.

That’s our love story! Fifty years is a long time — that’s 18,262 days. Some of those days were euphoric, most were ordinary, run-of-the-mill, normal, and a few were horrific. Pretty much like any life lived over five decades.

For the first five years of our marriage, we lived in studio or one-bedroom apartments in three different cities, and then we purchased a small Cape Cod house. We were busy moving around, trying to figure out how to settle down. A few years later, we bought our forever home in a Milwaukee suburb — and lived there less than two years! A job offer came from out of the blue that we couldn’t refuse. We moved across the state to our current home, our real “forever” home — we’ve lived there for over 40 years.

In that home, we raised three amazing children and rejoiced over the births of five grandchildren. Neighbors have moved in and become good friends, although most have moved away. We are amongst a handful of folks in our neighborhood who are original owners.

We’ve had cats almost too numerous to count — including Eureka, Kirby, Electro Lux (Luxie), Hoover, Bissell (Bizy), and Tucker. We’ve had several dogs, including our beloved Gracie, who is no longer on this earth, but is missed every day. We’ve planted trees, some now over 60 feet tall, and created expansive gardens. We’ve lived hard and loved hard in this home — our true forever home.

A few years ago — in 2019, to be precise — I finally talked Sherpa into traveling internationally. We had traveled the USA with our family, camping for 3-4 weeks every year; Sherpa and I have visited all 50 United States! I’d been eager to see more of the world, but Sherpa had limited vacation time, and it never worked into our schedules. We finally took a Scandinavian cruise in September of 2019, and fell in love with ocean cruising.

After that first cruise, we took several more cruises — all 12 days or less, and I began toying with the idea of going on a really long cruise, perhaps even a world cruise. I yearned to see as much of the world as possible.

Finally, in 2024, Sherpa began to muse about retirement. The big problem? He loved his job and couldn’t imagine not working. The even bigger problem? We couldn’t fit our travel dreams into his work calendar.

Travel finally won, and we started planning for his retirement and the 2025 World Cruise aboard the Seven Seas Mariner.

In 2024, we celebrated a festive Christmas season with our family, then we packed enough clothes and miscellaneous items to get us through 150 days.

And off we went on Regent’s 2025 World Cruise! We traveled the world from North America to South America, Antarctica, Oceania, Australia, and Asia, before returning to San Francisco and then back home. It was a once-in-a-lifetime trip and left us yearning for even more.

Back home, we celebrated family with trips to Niagara Falls and upstate New York. We hung out with our kids and grandkids — hiking, cooking, playing board games, just doing nothing together (which often leads to the best times!)

We took road trips in the autumn — one to Denver and another to Arizona. We spent quiet days at home — drinking coffee early each morning while compiling our daily birding list, hiking in nearby parks, and spending time with family and friends.

Christmas rolled around again. We gathered with our family, and much of our conversation focused on future travel. Wanderlust was running wild in our minds and hearts. We planned a July trip to Hawaii with family to celebrate our 50th wedding anniversary. We planned a trip to Disney World with some of the grandchildren for later in 2026. And we looked forward to our next cruise, as well.

In April of this year, we once again packed our bags and embarked on what we now refer to as our Half-World Cruise. We boarded the Mariner about halfway through the 2026 World Cruise, setting sail from Singapore towards India, Africa, and Europe. Thus far, we’ve gone on an African safari where we saw the Big Five; we explored several ports in India and Sri Lanka; we’ve traveled the African coastline from Mozambique to Senegal; and island-hopped from São Tomé to Madeira. So many highlights! And for the final leg of our journey, we embarked on our first trans-Atlantic crossing, cruising from Lisbon to Miami.

Today, as we cruised the Atlantic Ocean on our way to Miami and onward to our home, our family and friends, we marked one of the biggest highlights of our journey, and our lives. We celebrated our 50th wedding anniversary!

Captain Abhi kindly invited us to the bridge for coffee, and we ended up having a very special, very private ceremony, in which we renewed our wedding vows. (I didn’t cry nearly as much this time as I did 50 years ago!)

Fifty photos for fifty years. May you be as blessed as we have been!

Sending love to all our friends and family who are such an important part of our lives. See you soon!

Love,

— Bo and Sherpa

The volcanic islands of the Azores create a natural aquarium in the middle of the Atlantic between Europe and North America. Whale watching, sport fishing, paragliding, and yachting are popular pastimes. Stroll by the beautiful marina and stop in to legendary Peter Café Sport - a restaurant, scrimshaw museum, post office, and a necessary stop for all sailors. — Regent

We caught a glimpse of Mount Pico as we sailed between Pico Island and Faial Island on our way to Horta’s harbor. Pico, the highest peak in Portugal at 7,713 feet, spent most of the day hidden in cloud cover. We arrived in Horta about 8 AM, and were grateful that the Mariner was able to dock. The weather had been a concern, with a high wind warning, and the possibility of a port cancellation was on everyone’s mind. Thankfully, Captain Abhi, with the help of his team and an Azorean pilot boat, coaxed the sweet Mariner into place, and we all looked forward to a great day ashore in the Azores.

Our Pre-Cruise Research:

• Daytime High Temperature: Approximately 68°F to 70°F.

• Nighttime Low Temperature: Around 59°F to 61°F.

• Weather Pattern: Typically partly cloudy with “variable” conditions; while rains have eased compared to winter, the Azores often experience quick changes between sun, fog, and light rain.

• Rainfall Chance: Low to moderate (approximately 16% to 37% probability of some light precipitation).

• Wind & Humidity: The region may feel breezy with moderate to high humidity, averaging around 80%.

• Sunrise/Sunset: The sun will rise at approximately 6:30 AM and set at 9:15 PM local time, providing over 14 hours of daylight.

The Azores — pronounced “Ay-Zores” by Americans and “Ah-Zor-Ess” by Europeans, or so we’ve been told — are drop-dead gorgeous. Pulling into the harbor, or rather backing in, for our Captain had to do a lot of sea-wrangling to get the ship docked, the skies cleared over the town, and the mostly white-washed buildings with red tile roofs stood out in splendor. Horta made a great first impression.

I want to give Sherpa a shout-out for the panoramic photo he took of Horta from the 12th-floor Sports Deck on the Mariner. A couple of days ago, he took the very excellent cell-phone photography class taught by Jill Denton, part of the Enrichment Lecture series, and he learned that his iPhone had a pano function. This was his first-ever attempt at a pano, and he did a darn good job.

Horta is on Faial Island, which is called the "Blue Island" because it’s blanketed with blue hydrangeas from mid-June to August. Faial — its name was derived from the Portuguese word meaning "beech wood” because early settlers thought the local wax myrtles were beech trees — is one of nine volcanic islands that form the Azores archipelago. It’s not a large island, only 67 square miles, or 13 miles in length and 8.7 miles in width, and it’s isolated from large landmasses. The mainland of Portugal is about 900 miles away. Still, it has a lot of appeal — it balances wild volcanic landscapes and pastoral countryside with a historic, cosmopolitan maritime culture and offers plenty of outdoor activities for nature lovers.

Sherpa and I chose to go on a Regent-included excursion in the morning, so that we would have ample opportunity to explore on our own in the afternoon. We booked the 2.75-hour Capelinhos with Interpretive Center tour.

Description: Immerse yourself in the fascinating history and astonishing ramifications of a devastating volcanic eruption off the coast of Faial Island, with an enlightening visit to an underground interpretive center. Settle in for a picturesque drive to Capelinhos, where the strikingly barren terrain is rocky and hauntingly lunar-like from the volcano’s violent eruption in 1957. Experience a definitive understanding of the natural phenomenon as you stop at the interpretative center that was built beneath the stately Capelinhos lighthouse, the only building to survive the eruption. You’ll enjoy a peerless look at the year-plus following the natural phenomenon, painstakingly captured by scientists on film and in photos. Through interactive exhibits, you’ll learn about the dramatic impact on the island’s landscape and its people, half of whom were forced to emigrate after farmlands and homes were blanketed in ash. Relish your time at the interpretative center to discover captivating exhibits that offer a thrilling, up-close understanding of the Azores’ geology and volcanic activity.

The above flowery description can be summarized as follows: Drive to the volcano interpretive center while admiring the pastoral countryside; take a guided tour of the underground interpretive center; walk through the bleak, devastated landscape left by the eruptions; once again drive through the countryside as we return to Horta; get dropped off in the city center or return to the ship.

Our group of 26 boarded a luxury-style coach and off we went, as our guide provided us with a thorough history of the area. The interior of Faial was idyllic — green pastures, a stand of homes each with a yard surrounded by hedges, villages tucked into hillsides, small herds of cattle, pockets of woodland.

Faiail has a staggering abundance of vibrant blue hydrangeas. The acidic, volcanic soil creates the perfect conditions for these magnificent flowers to grow in giant hedges along roadsides and trails. The shrubs were just beginning to bloom on the day we visited.

We drove from Horta, located on the southeast coast of the island, to the Capelinhos Volcano Interpretation Center on the far west coast, a drive of about 45 minutes. Everything was remarkably lush and green — until we reached our destination!

The Capelinhos Interpretive Center is an award-winning museum that documents the island’s historic 1957–1958 volcanic eruption and tectonic activity. It features interactive exhibitions, an auditorium, access to the lighthouse ruins, and a snack bar. If you’re wondering what the Center looks like from the parking lot, it’s that blue/gray disk on the earth in the photo — the center is completely underground.

The 13-month-long underwater volcanic eruption that occurred in 1957-58 transformed the landscape into a dusty, lunar-gray surface and expanded the island’s area by roughly 1 square mile.

We had a comprehensive tour led by our guide — the many exhibits include information about the birth of the volcano, the formation of the archipelago, world volcanoes, and the history of Azorean lighthouses.

It was quite a nice excursion. Our guide was friendly and knowledgeable. A snafu at the Interpretive Center meant we missed one of the movies, but we were able to see all the exhibits, which gave us a decent understanding of the events of 1957-58.

Sherpa and I then chose to go outside and walk the landscape. Other guests remained inside the center, watching the delayed movie or having a cup of tea or coffee.

We culminated our tour at the ruins of the 1894 lighthouse. There was access to a overlook where we were able to gaze down at the dramatic landscape.

Other groups were hiking to the top of the peak, following a path marked with a white railing. The official interpretive walking loop (called the Capelinhos Volcano Interpretive Tour) is about 1.2 miles. It has an elevation gain of around 415 feet, going across the ash fields and up to vantage points of the crater. We opted to stay on level ground, which was hard enough to tramp through — like trudging through dusty black sand!

The drive back to Horta, along a coastal road, was scenic, At one point, Mount Pico peeked out from its almost constant cloud cover.

We gaped at the spectacular volcanic sea arches, caves, and rock formations that have been carved out of black basalt by centuries of relentless Atlantic wave erosion as we headed towards Horta.

We returned to town around noon. Our tour guide thoughtfully offered to drop us off in front of Peter Café Sport, so we didn’t have to retrace our steps back into town. We spent the rest of the afternoon enjoying the vibes of the island’s largest community. I enjoyed taking some fun photos of local daily life. (I absolutely adored the way the person who hung the clothes on the line separated the items by color — black, then purple, then white.)

Then we made the requisite stop at the legendary Peter Café Sport, considered one of the world’s most iconic sailor bars. This historic place is famous for its gin and tonics, and also houses a second-floor museum showcasing intricate scrimshaw art. Unfortunately, the scrimshaw museum had just closed for the caretaker’s lunch break, so we missed the opportunity to ogle the traditional 19th-century folk art created by carving intricate designs into bone.

No need to worry! We hadn’t come to the famous bar for its museum (though I would have enjoyed seeing it); we’d come to find a Destination Beer for Sherpa’s collection. Although the establishment is famous for its gin, Sherpa was more interested in its draft beer selection. He quickly assessed his options, and ordered an IPA. “Sorry,” the bartender said, shaking his head, “Didn’t come in. We’re out.” This is life on a remote island, we were told. “When we’re out, we’re really out.”

We knew from the red kegs piled against the pub’s sidewalk that they sold the Super Bock brand, and so Sherpa made do with a Super Bock Abadia, a “premium, Belgian Abbey-style beer produced by the Portuguese brewery Super Bock Group.” 6.4% ABV and 13 IBU.

Sherpa’s Take: “Malty and sweet, a nicely layered beer.” 6/10

We ordered lunch — tuna steak sandwich for me and an Azorean salad for Sherpa — and Sherpa ordered a second draft. (Since we’ll be sailing the Atlantic for the next four days, there won’t be an opportunity for another draft beer until we reach Bermuda.)

He ordered a Super Bock Stout. 5% ABV and 17 IBU. Sherpa’s Take: “Dark in color. Strong malty taste. Disappointing. No depth or complexity. More like a dark lager beer.” 4/10

We’d finished our food and drinks, had an enjoyable conversation with folks from the ship who offered to take our photo — thanks, Sandy — and now it was time to check out the town as we leisurely walked the mile back to the cruise terminal.

Horta played a pivotal role in early transatlantic aviation as it was a key strategic refueling stop for Pan American Airways’ Clipper flying boats. In May of 1939, Pan Am’s Yankee Clipper — a Boeing 314 flying boat — departed New York to test the first scheduled transatlantic mail service, stopping in Horta for refueling. Then in June of the same year, Pan Am's Dixie Clipper carried the first paying transatlantic passengers, departing Long Island, NY, and flying to Lisbon, Portugal, again with a stop in Horta for refueling. Quite a historic town as far as the history of flying is concerned!

Horta is a famous stop, not only for pilots, but also for transatlantic sailors. Passing crews paint commemorative murals on the marina's walls or nearby sidewalks.

According to local legend, the sailors leave these colorful signs here for good luck and to ensure safe passage on their next voyage.

We enjoyed watching this sailing couple document their stop in Horta with a turtle stencil; they’ll be on their way in a few days for the next leg of their trans-Atlantic voyage.

The Igreja Matriz do Santíssimo Salvador (Church of the Holy Savior) is a towering cultural landmark located in the center of town. We noticed this looming structure as we walked along the marina, and decided to do a quick detour to get a closer look — one last chance to tour the interior of another remarkable, and formidable, Portuguese church.

This 17th-century church is celebrated for its ornate Baroque architecture, gilded woodcarvings, and traditional Portuguese azulejos. Churches can be such a surprise — you never know what you’re going to find inside! To our delight, this one offered a lot to admire.

We’ve seen Portuguese azulejos (tiles) in every port on this cruise that’s had some sort of connection to Portugal, beginning in Goa, India, and including Sao Tome, Angola, Cape Verde, Madeira, and Lisbon. Since this was our last Portuguese-related port of call, we were happy to find one more stunning example of the blue-and-white tiles. They covered the walls of the sanctuary and side altars in this church.

The church also housed a magnificent 18th-century altar made of embossed and wrought silver, a beautiful silver chandelier, and a carved jacaranda chest in the sacristy with silver hardware. Wow!

We accidentally stumbled upon this charming park as we walked from the church to the cruise terminal. Jardim Florêncio Terra, one of the oldest gardens in Horta, was a square of shade, and perfect for relaxing on one of its many park benches. Koi swam in the pools as black swans perched along the shores. Little boys chased the waterfowl as their mothers looked on!

It’s been awhile since we’ve enjoyed watching mothers and children playing together in a park setting; it made us grateful that we’ll soon be rejoined with our children and their children — it’s nearly time to call an end to this adventure of ours.

Aren’t these gigantic art cutouts fun? They were spread out throughout the park, part of a community project. These reminders of simple art supplies made me realize I’m also ready to get back to my studio. Cruising the world is a wonderful experience; it’s even more wonderful when we recognize that we’re also eager to return to our lives in Wisconsin!

More sidewalk art to admire as we continued walking along the promenade. The Mariner isn’t too far; after a busy day, we’ll be glad to put our feet up and enjoy a sailaway party with the Regent Seven Seas Top Tier guests.

Goodbye, Horta. We enjoyed our day exploring Horta and Faial Island. What a beautiful island — a bit of paradise!

Now we get to enjoy four sea days as we sail across the North Atlantic Ocean. The next port of call, and our last port before we finish our cruise in Miami, is Hamilton, Bermuda.

Legend states that Ulysses founded Lisbon, calling it Olisipo. Others claim that the name is Phoenician, but all agree it’s one of Europe’s most fascinating destinations. On All Saints’ Day in 1755, a devastating earthquake destroyed much of the city. The Baixa (Lower City) was rebuilt along neo-classical lines and still forms the heart of the city. The elegant ‘City of Explorers’ overlooks the River Tagus and offers a number of distinctive neighborhoods to discover. Tour the Alfama, where the winding streets still retain much of their Moorish atmosphere. Stroll to Bairro Alto and hear the melodious sounds of Portugal’s Fado music. Nearby excursions transport you to the lavish 18th-century palace of Queluz and Sintra’s Royal Palace. — Regent

Pre-cruise Research:

• Daytime High Temperature: Approximately 77°F to 81°F.

• Nighttime Low Temperature: Around 63°F to 66°F.

• Precipitation: Extremely low probability of rain (approx. 1% chance). June is one of Lisbon’s driest and most reliable months.

• Humidity: Moderate and comfortable (around 65%).

• Sea Temperature: The ocean temperature will be cool, around 64°F.

• Daylight: Enjoy long summer days, with sunrise around 6:11 AM and sunset around 8:48 PM local time.

We arrived in Lisbon early, around 7 AM — this was the day of disembarkation for the Western Africa and Isles of Wonder cruise, which had begun in Cape Town, South Africa, 24 days ago. About 340 passengers departed the ship, and a similar number boarded the ship for the next segment, the 11-day Lisbon to Miami - Heaven Across the Seas.

Four excursion options were offered to cruisers who were either on the World Cruise or on back-to-back voyages. Two of the excursions featured tours to nearby towns, but since Sherpa and I had never been to Lisbon, we wanted to explore the city. Our other options were Scenic Lisbon, a bus tour with several photo stops, or Lisbon’s Hop-On, Hop-Off Bus excursion. We hadn’t planned on taking our third HOHO tour in as many ports, but it seemed our best choice, and so we booked this Regent-included excursion.

LISBON HOP-ON, HOP-OFF BUS

Description: Ride double-decker buses around Lisbon and enjoy the sights along the way. Hop off at the stops that you find most intriguing and stay as long as you like. Hop on another vehicle whenever you wish and ride it to the next interesting stop. Hear commentary for each stop so you can easily pick your favorites.

The first things we noticed, as we began our bus ride on the open-air top floor, were the preponderance of buildings with tile facades and wrought-iron balconies, and the distinctive black-and-white Portuguese sidewalk pavement.

These intricately carved and pieced black-and-white tiles transform the city's sidewalks into extensive tapestries depicting its history. We spotted zigzagging wave patterns, sailing ships, and compasses, along with other decorative designs, as we traveled along the streets of Lisbon.

Lisbon’s iconic yellow trams date back to the early 20th century and are famous for their ability to easily navigate the city’s steep hills and narrow cobblestone streets. Although our excursion ticket included access to these vintage yellow trams and also the city center’s funiculars, we weren’t able to take advantage of those options. We would have tried both, had time allowed.

The Hard Rock Cafe is located in a city-center building that features a distinct Art Deco design with bas-relief elements on the curved corner. The building, built in 1951, was originally the Condes Cinema, and the interior of the restaurant features iconic memorabilia from that era.

Look carefully, and you’ll notice that this sculpture of a human face is actually created with bronze fragments of botanics — leaves, branches, seed pods. It’s by French street artist Alexandre Monteiro.

We had just enough time to grab this photo of Pink Street as the bus zoomed past. Pink Street, officially known as Rua Nova do Carvalho, features bright pink pavement and a canopy of pastel umbrellas strung overhead. The street was once the city’s red-light district, but it’s transformed into one of the city’s trendiest nightlife hubs.

The Jerónimos Monastery serves as a national pantheon and the final resting place for some of the most influential figures in Portuguese history, including world explorers, literary icons, and royalty. As one of Lisbon’s UNESCO World Heritage sites, it’s an architectural masterpiece, intertwined with the history of Portugal’s Age of Discovery.

We were tempted to get off at this stop, but one look at the crowds on a Saturday at noon, and our enthusiasm waned. We reminded ourselves that we had little more than time enough to get a lay of the land, and trying to visit any of the major attractions could complicate our plan. Since we hope to return in 2027 for an extended visit, our best option was to get a feel for the city and catalog the sites we wanted to visit “next time.” (Not our favorite way to travel, pushing things off to “next time,” but we’ve discovered a day visit to a major metropolitan city affords very limited options.)

We admired the enormous monastery’s exterior as we passed by the ornate side portal. The two-story entrance stands 105 ft high and 39 ft wide. Its ornate features include an abundance of gables and pinnacles, with many carved figures standing in niches around a pedestaled statue of Henry the Navigator between the two doors. No wonder an edifice as grand as this one took a century to build!

The Belém Tower, another UNESCO World Heritage Site in Lisbon, is a 16th-century fort located on the banks of the Tagus River. Another one of the country’s most iconic landmarks, it serves as an architectural symbol of Portugal’s maritime power during Europe’s Age of Discovery.

Lisbon’s monument district, primarily located in the Belém neighborhood, sits on the banks of the Tagus River. This historic estuary is the longest river in the Iberian Peninsula and served as the starting point for Portugal’s legendary Age of Discovery. Now it’s a hub for leisure activities, too, with a busy marina and a jam-packed riverside pathway used by bicyclists, joggers, and walkers. This was obviously the place to be on a sunny Saturday afternoon!

The Monument of the Discoveries was erected to celebrate the Portuguese Age of Exploration during the 15th and 16th centuries. It was first erected as a temporary exhibit in 1940 and rebuilt in its current form in 1960. Inside, you can enjoy the ship-like architecture, ascend the rooftop for panoramic river views, or explore historical exhibits. There’s even a sidewalk map mosaic to explore with your feet! (Yes. A stop at this monument is on our to-do list!)

Now that Sherpa and I have encountered repeated mentions of the Age of Discovery while traveling along western Africa and the Cape of Good Hope, our curiosity has been piqued. We’ve added several books about the subject to our summer “beach read” list… or maybe we’ll do an audiobook, instead!

In a small garden in the Monuments District, I noticed this small art installation dedicated to the poetry of Sophia de Mello Breyner Andresen.

Once again, as we travel, I am reminded of how much there is to discover in this amazing world — and I’m thinking only of a small niche: the worlds of art and literature. I devour both art and poetry. They are my loves. Yet, as we’ve traveled the continents of Asia and Africa, and now touched briefly in Europe’s Spain and Portugal on this three-segment cruise, I repeatedly come into contact with well-known artists, writers, and poets, of whom I’ve never heard. How wonderful is this! There is a vast world of creative folks whom I can continue to learn about once I return to the US.

Here is one such person, poet Sophia de Mello Breyner Andresen, who, according to Wikipedia, is “considered one of the most important Portuguese poets of the 20th century. She published fourteen poetry books between 1944 and 1997, covering themes such as the natural world, the search for justice, Ancient Greece, and the importance of poetry.”

Here are the first lines of one of her most beloved poems that I read on her website:

The Garden (O Jardim) by Sophia de Mello Breyner Andresen, translated from Portuguese by Colin Rorrison.

The garden is brilliant and in bloom.
Over the weeds, among the foliage,
The wind passes, dreamy and distracted,
Pilgrim of a thousand pilgrimages.

This stunning span of geometric tiles was designed by Portuguese artist Eduardo Nery and is located along a busy, steep thoroughfare we traveled as we headed from the Belém district to the City Center. Installed in 1993–1994, it was created during Lisbon’s tenure as the European Capital of Culture — a surefire way to add an infusion of color to a rather boring stretch of highway.

I love the juxtaposition of the pastel-colored apartment buildings with their classic wrought iron balconies and three-pane windows, overlooking the bright stripes of the highway art wall.

Since we were traveling on the top floor of the double-decker bus, we often had “top of the street sign” views of the urban setting. We started seeing sign toppers — metal ships carrying birds as their only passengers. (Later, we looked it up and discovered that this ship — a sailing ship flanked by two ravens — is a symbol of Lisbon. According to legend, the holy relics of Saint Vincent — the patron saint of Lisbon — were returned to the city by boat from southern Portugal in 1173. The boat was accompanied by two ravens who kept guard for the entire journey.)

Now the boat-and-raven symbol can be seen throughout the city and is integrated into the urban infrastructure — on streetlights, plaques, manhole covers, and even on the city’s coat of arms! Ya gotta love the history of objects such as this…

As our bus climbed the steep Avenida Infante Santo and repeatedly stopped in traffic, we had just enough time to photograph a few of the large-scale azulejos, or tile murals, built into public stairways along the street. This public-arts walkway spotlights 20th-century and contemporary tile masterpieces, carefully integrated into the steps and handrails of a retaining wall that separates the busy street from a block of apartments.

There is a lot of graffiti on the buildings in Lisbon, mostly on aged buildings scheduled for demolition or on derelict ruins. The square tower and red-tiled roof are a part of the Gothic ruins of Carmo Convent, and have been tagged by graffiti artists. The city, which has had a problem with indiscriminate tagging, has expanded its street arts program to encourage legal urban art while limiting unauthorized work.

Águas Livres Aqueducts are a series of 35 stone arches, the tallest rising to 214 feet, that were part of an 18th-century engineering marvel that survived the 1755 Lisbon Earthquake. The aqueducts are part of the Water Museum, and visitors can walk across the section spanning the Alcântara Valley.

The lowest arches of the aqueduct, also part of the Water Museum, terminate near the Jardim das Amoreiras and are decorated with historical tile panels depicting the history of water in Portugal. The Water Museum is an unusual, niche museum, and it’s supposed to be great if you like out-of-the-ordinary experiences. Since it’s spread out over four locations, it didn’t fit into our time-limited day in Lisbon, but we’re adding it to our “next time” to-do list.

As we approached the terminus of the HOHO bus route, we went through Lisbon’s modern city center, where dozens of skyscrapers towered over our heads. A huge change from the old-town vibes we first experienced, and the historical monuments area we passed in the middle of the tour.

We had to disembark from the “red route” HOHO bus, which had made a two-hour loop through the highlights of Lisbon, at a roundabout in Parque Eduardo VII, and transfer to a “blue route” bus, which would take us to the cruise terminal. But we’d been on the bus a long time and needed to stretch our legs, and perhaps find something to eat, before boarding another bus. Plus, we were distracted by several huge black-and-white billboards across the street from the parking area, featuring… BOOKS!

We had stumbled upon one of Lisbon’s premier springtime events! The Lisbon Book Fair! For 19 days, the sloping paths of Parque Eduardo VII are transformed into an open-air literary festival. Hundreds of pavilions represented publishers, independent bookstores, and major retailers. Plus, happily for our growling stomachs, the park was lined with food trucks offering everything from hamburgers to vegan meals.

Of course, we headed up the hill to check out all the books! Of course, the catch we had already deduced was the language issue. Almost all of the available books were published in Portuguese. Almost heaven, but more like an English-only speaker’s purgatory! Still, we had a marvelous time!

Never fear! We were able to find a couple of wordless children's books for our 3- and 5-year-old granddaughters. The booksellers were amazing, BTW. Such excellent service, and they bemoaned the lack of English books, saying we were not the only folks wishing we could find foreign-language offerings.

Sherpa first had a Sagres beer at a cafe in the Monte Palace Tropical Garden in Funchal, Madeira, just a few days ago. He enjoyed it then — gave it a 6/10 — but said it “might be growing on him.” Today, as we munched on burgers and fries and did a lot of people-watching, he said: “It might warrant a 6.5 or even a 7!”

Curious, but not tempted! This cute pop-up stand sold gourmet popcorn — flavors included powdered milk, peanut brittle, and caramel. If none of the popcorn flavors appealed to your little kid’s palate, how about some gourmet cotton candy? The traditional flavors were available, as well as more unusual ones like watermelon, blueberry, grape, and pineapple. Any takers?

We didn’t need to search for our iconic Coca-Cola advertisement in Lisbon. The seating area at the book fair was sponsored by Coke, and we sat at a Coca-Cola-embellished table, shaded by Coca-Cola umbrellas. And yes, I had my daily ration of Coke Zero, my go-to drink for the times when Sherpa is taste-testing one of his Destination Beers.

Finally, it was time to return to the HOHO hub and find the right bus to drop us off at the cruise terminal. There was quite a crowd trying to find out which bus went where, but a friendly driver directed us to the “blue” line and told us it departed every half hour. Helpful info to know. We only had a few minutes’ wait. A blue bus pulled up, which we boarded, grabbed a seat on top, and settled in for the last half-hour of our tour.

We drove past Campo Pequeno, a multi-tiered stadium built in the orange-brick Neo-Mudéjar (Moorish Revival) style, and originally completed in 1892. This is the only venue that still allows traditional bullfighting, but unlike the Spanish tradition, the bull is no longer allowed to be killed in Portugal. Even so, the event is highly controversial because of the physical injury and stress inflicted on the animal. Today, the stadium also operates as a multi-use center which hosts international music concerts and fairs; it also has an underground shopping mall and a cinema. Sounds like progress!

Lisbon evidently loves its literary heroes. I haven’t noticed any statues of military leaders atop rearing horses or politicians glaring into crowds, but we’ve seen plenty of statues of poets and writers! (And now we are learning about them as we see them!)

Here’s a statue of Camilo Castelo Branco (1825–1890), one of the most prolific and celebrated novelists in Portuguese literature. A master of Romanticism and early Realism, he led a tumultuous, rather scandalous lifestyle that influenced his dramatic stories. He is best known for his 1862 tragic masterpiece, Love of Perdition. Another one of his more famous books, Portuguese Romeo and Juliet, he wrote in only 15 days. (Maybe he always knew the plot?)

The HOHO guide emphasized the importance of this statue, so I researched it when we were off the bus. “The iconic sculpture honoring the renowned Portuguese writer Eça de Queirós is located in the Chiado neighborhood. It depicts the writer holding a partially nude female figure in his arms. This represents an allegory of Truth — a prominent protagonist character from his novel A Relíquia.” - Wikipedia

At the base of the statue, his words proclaim:

On the strong nudity of Truth, 
the diaphanous cloak of fantasy.

Perhaps I should read some Portuguese literature once we return home!

Approaching the port as our HOHO excursion drew to a close, we could see rails, roads, and rivers — the three main modes of transportation — in close proximity to one another. Sherpa and I had a “moment” — when our children were in primary school and younger, we had family game night every Friday. After a quick pizza supper, we’d play board games around the kitchen table. And one of our family’s favorites was a Ravensburger game called Rivers, Roads, and Rails. Now, whenever we spy terrain that features the three transportation “Rs” all together, it brings back the fondest of memories!

The HOHO bus dropped us off across the street from the cruise terminal. Convenient! But before we could cross the street, we noticed a sign for “Fado Museum.” When we discovered it was only a block away, and we still had two hours before “back on board” time, we took a detour to the museum. The Museu do Fado is an interactive museum dedicated to Portugal’s musical genre, Fado.

The small, two-story museum explores the history of fado from its 19th-century working-class roots to its current status as a cultural musical treasure. Admission was only €4 per person, so even if we didn’t want to spend much time here, there was little downside. Some of the earliest exhibits showcased works of art featuring fado. This painting, O Fado, is a famous 1910 work by Portuguese artist José Malhoa, and is one of the earliest representations of Fado.

One of the interactive exhibits we most enjoyed was the panel of famous Fado singers. We were able to enter a code and listen to various individuals sing their most famous songs. Since we weren’t very familiar with the genre, it was a welcome introduction.

Another piece of art, Pieces of Wood by Pedro Guimaraes, which is intended to represent, through abstraction, a character of Fado culture. And sometimes objects that aren’t exactly art still look like art. Such was the case when I saw the brass tuners of a Portuguese guitar — don’t they look like a metal sculpture?

As we left the museum for the five-minute walk to the cruise terminal, Sherpa spied this modern azulejo, a square of blue-and-white tiles featuring a young woman. My travel motto, “Art is everywhere!” is certainly true in Lisbon. Everywhere we went, there was some sort of creative urban art — be it city-sanctioned public art projects, azulejos, both old and modern, or the less accepted but still vibrant and ever-present graffiti. Art truly is EVERYWHERE!

One of the last things we saw as we sailed away from Lisbon was the Sanctuary of Christ the King — locally known as Cristo Rei. Located across the Tagus River from Lisbon, this 360-foot-tall, Art Deco monument was inspired by Rio de Janeiro's Christ the Redeemer. Although Rio's figure is 6 feet taller than Lisbon’s, Lisbon’s structure is nearly three times higher due to its extremely tall pedestal.

We sailed under the Ponte 25 de Abril (25th of April Bridge), an iconic red suspension bridge spanning the Tagus River, as we left the mainland to begin our 11-day Lisbon to Miami cruise - Heaven Across the Seas.

What a wonderful day in Lisbon. We hope to come back!

Our next port of call — the Azores, Portugal.

Cádiz, Andalusia’s world-renowned capital, has undergone major restoration in recent years. Palm trees, gracious squares, flower-filled parks, ubiquitous red-tile-roofed buildings, and bustling street markets make this a most delightful port. The old town, on the tip of the peninsula, is buzzing with beautiful, lively plazas. To get there, you pass through the new town, an elegant metropolis with excellent beaches. — Regent

Our Pre-Cruise Research:

Daytime High Temperature: Approximately 76°F to 79°F. (accurate!)

Nighttime Low Temperature: Around 62°F to 64°F.

Precipitation: Extremely low probability of rain (approx. 2% chance). June is one of the driest months in Cádiz, with typically only one day of significant rainfall. (Sunny and blue skies!)

Humidity: Moderate and comfortable (around 60% to 67%). (Comfy.)

Sea Temperature: Around 68°F to 70°F, which may feel refreshing for swimmers. (The beaches were crowded with sunbathers and swimmers.)

Wind Awareness: Be prepared for the Levante wind, which can occasionally blow strongly along the coast, potentially making outdoor activities difficult. (Yep. It was windy!)

Daylight: Enjoy long days for exploration, with sunrise at approximately 7:06 AM and sunset at 9:43 PM.

Although we had originally considered taking a Regent tour to Seville, the more we read about Cadiz, the more we wanted to hang around and see this seaside city. Plus, we only had 8 hours in port, and Seville was a 90-minute drive away. We turned in our tickets at Destination Services and then booked the Hop-On Hop-Off (HOHO) City Sightseeing Bus, a Regent-included tour.

Description: Let the Hop On Hop Off City Sightseeing Bus show you the best things to see in Cádiz! You cannot miss the beach if you are visiting this beautiful city. Hop off at Playa Santa María to enjoy a relaxing stroll along the coastline. If you love architecture, hop off to visit Cádiz Cathedral and admire the result of many years of work. This largely baroque-style cathedral was built over 116 years! And when you are ready to go green, visit a true forest in the middle of the city: Parque Genovés.

This prominent mural, visible from our suite’s balcony as we approached the Cádiz cruise port, was Pescadoras de Recuerdos (or Fishers of Memories) by Spanish artist Okuda San Miguel. Painted on two facades of the dock’s warehouses, this colorful piece was created to greet arriving and departing sea travelers. Okuda's Pop Surrealism style features bold colors and strong geometric patterns, a combination that’s impossible to miss.

It was a perfect summery day in Cádiz! We boarded the HOHO bus just steps from the ship. We enjoyed an hour-long tour of the city, which focused on architecture, including several historic churches, long stretches of beach, and a classic botanical garden along the Atlantic Ocean coastline. Sherpa and I enjoyed searching for the many examples of Art Deco buildings along the first part of the route as we traveled through the city center.

Only minutes from the port, we noticed a park filled with chessboards. A supersized chessboard takes center stage in the small urban setting, while small chess benches ring the edges of the circle.

After riding on the HOHO bus for about half the route, we disembarked at the stop near Cádiz Cathedral. Cádiz Cathedral (officially the Catedral de la Santa Cruz sobre las Aguas, or Cathedral of the Holy Cross by the Sea) is an iconic 18th-century architectural masterpiece. Commissioned during the city's Golden Age of maritime trade with the Americas, construction on the church began in 1722, but due to financial constraints, world events, and repeated changes in architectural planning, the cathedral took 116 years to complete.

Because of this incredibly long timeline, the structure features an unusual blend of grand Baroque and classical Neoclassical styles, crowned by a brilliant, gleaming golden-tiled dome. It’s a fascinating structure, both inside and out.

Yes, at first glance, this does appear to be a car-sized silver casket positioned in a place of honor in the cathedral. But no, it’s a processional monstrance used to carry religious items during festival processions through the streets of Cádiz. And no, it isn’t hoisted upon the shoulders of the strongest parishioners. It’s made of solid silver and weighs nearly 900 pounds; a team of 10 men pushes it on a wheeled trolley!

Look how light and airy this sanctuary is! Most of the historic cathedrals we’ve explored are of the heavy, dark wood variety. We learned that the bright, centrally-positioned area surrounding the altar was the result of the century-plus construction delay — during that time, architectural styles shifted from dark, heavy Baroque to clean, bright Neoclassicism. The heavy, dark aesthetic found in older European churches was abandoned for a lighter, cleaner one — and wasn’t that a fitting choice for light-filled, airy Cádiz? By using pale local limestone, cream-colored marbles, and a high dome, rather than dark woods in a narrow rectangular space, the architects brought the light-shimmering quality of the Atlantic coast inside the sacred space. How lovely!

Situated near the sanctuary area was this massive choir area made of ornately carved wood. These stalls originally belonged to a monastery in Seville and featured intricately carved religious figures separated by twisted columns. Each one was a work of art in itself; combined, they were quite awe-inspiring. However, no matter how beautiful, those seats didn’t look like the comfiest in the place! (Sherpa and I remarked on the similarity of these wooden stall seats with those we once used while studying in Northwestern University’s Law School’s Lincoln Hall in Chicago. Sherpa was in the law school, and we would go there in the evenings to study — great atmosphere and very quiet, plus it was impossible to doze off.)

The organs were masterpieces — monumental pipe organs flanking either side of the choir section. Built in the 18th century, and fabulously restored, they were designed to deliver a “surround sound” experience, way before surround sound became a thing in every American family room. We were intrigued by the row of organ pipes jutting horizontally over the choir stalls. — and later discovered that these were classic features of Spanish organs called trompeta en chamade, or horizontal trumpets. During big celebrations, they shout out the fanfare.

(The two organs have different functions. The Gospel organ plays the melody while the Epistle organ does all sorts of echoe-y harmony. One more thing that Sherpa and I just put on our to-do list — return to the Cádiz Cathedral for Mass to hear the organs and choir! It seems like it would be a fabulous acoustical experience.)

Sherpa and I were fascinated by the huge choir book on display. Because printing large books was so difficult and expensive in the 18th century, the entire choir read their music from a single book, so large it could be read from several yards away. The pages, made of vellum, were so heavy that it took two men to turn the pages. (Oh, the things you discover when exploring around the world! We had no idea…)

We only saw the one book on display; the majority are safely locked away in the Cathedral’s Historic Music Archive, which preserves hundreds of thousands of pages of historic, sacred music.

We absolutely adored this breathtaking piece, El Cogollo, which featured an illuminated celestial globe representing the world, supported by intricately sculpted angels. What an outstanding example of sacred metalwork, and it dates back to the 16th and 17th centuries, when Cádiz was the primary trading hub between Spain and the Americas.

The way the globe is positioned, we could trace much of the route we’ve been traveling — and will travel — on our “half a world cruise” — from South Africa, north up the western coast of Africa, the islands off northwest Africa, to our current stop in Cádiz, Spain, followed by a stop in Lisbon, Portugal, and then a trans-Atlantic cruise ending in Miami. It’s difficult to explain, but it meant something special to us, tracing the route we’re currently sailing on this sacred, illuminated globe. It somehow highlighted just how sacred and illuminating our travels have been!

Finally, after a rather exhaustive tour of the cathedral’s interior and crypt, we escaped outside for fresh air and lunch. We honestly could have spent another half-day exploring all the historical riches in the Cádiz Cathedral. But we had to be back on board the Mariner for a 3 PM departure.

We found an empty seat at a cafe in the square, and combined lunch and some serious people- and dog-watching. And we repeatedly asked each other, “Why does this square have so many matching dog owners and dogs?” We sat near the middle-aged, graying gentleman who fed his matching middle-aged, graying Chihuahua a doggie treat every time the man took a bite of his own food. It was obvious this was a well-rehearsed ritual. There was also an older woman whose hairdresser must have taken great pains to match her hair color and style to her frisky Pomeranian. Finally, a tall, slender man strolled the perimeter of the square with his tall and slender Greyhound. What a pleasure it was to see the dogs and owners interacting in such loving and attentive ways, especially since we have had minimal doggie contact over these last two months!

We also ordered and consumed a variety of food and drink.

We enjoyed snacking on small plates of Cheese and Rice Balls, Jamón on Crusty Rolls, and a side of fries. I had a rich, creamy latte while Sherpa went in search of a local beer.

Cruzcampo Especial “is the richer, flagship pale lager from Cruzcampo, Seville’s most famous brewery. Compared to Alhambra Especial, it has a higher alcohol content and offers a slightly different, sweeter flavor profile. 5.6% ABV for the true Spanish Especial version.”

Sherpa’s Take: “Smooth, sweet, and malty. A perfect beer to sip as we people-watch while sitting on a sun-drenched, Spanish square.” 6.5/10.

While Sherpa sipped his beer, I went back for dessert! A scoop of Meringue Leche and a scoop of Caramel Cookie from Narigoni Gelato made for an exceptional gelato experience. The creamy textures and richly balanced flavors hit the spot.

Sherpa also purchased a bottle of Alhambra Especial to bring back to the ship for one of his legendary onboard beer-tasting parties. The beer is marketed as “a premium pale lager brewed by Cervezas Alhambra in Granada, Spain. Inspired by classic German Pilsner recipes, this 5.4% ABV beer is renowned for its crisp, smooth mouthfeel, subtle fruit notes, and perfectly balanced malt and hop flavors.” Time will tell how accurate this description is.

This yellow-legged gull wasn’t shy at all. He and several of his cronies hopped onto tables recently vacated by humans, but not yet cleared of dishes, and reaped the bounties of leftovers. They are surprisingly large birds when seen up close!

Another iconic Coca-Cola sighting! An entire refrigerated case of the stuff, and still not a Caffeine-free Diet Coke (CFDC) to be found on this side of the Atlantic Ocean. By the time we return home, I may very well have broken my one-a-day CFDC habit. Surely that would be a good thing!

We walked past this lovely carousel, and how I wished it were open for rides. There’s nothing quite like riding an antique carousel horse as it prances along in a historic square. The Carrusel Antiguo, a beautiful, vintage double-decker carousel, is permanently stationed directly in front of the grand Catedral de Cádiz and the neighboring Church of Santiago Apóstol. (Next time?)

It is framed perfectly by the church façades and the city’s iconic golden dome. All those gorgeous carved lines and decorative painted and gilded panels — no minimalism in sight!

We hopped back on the HOHO bus for the last half of the tour, and our return ride to the cruise terminal. We passed by this glazed terracotta carving of Our Lady of Mount Carmel as we approached the beach area. She is the patron saint of sailors, and so is often featured on seaside buildings.

We then drove past the Castillo de San Sebastián, an 18th-century fortress situated on a small island out in the ocean. It’s connected to the long, golden beach by a long, stone walkway (Paseo Fernando Quiñones). It was a picture-perfect day, and as the day progressed, the beaches and harbor got busier. The beginning of June and the beginning of summer!

The nearby Avenida Campo del Sur featured a wide stone promenade lined with lampposts, above massive concrete wave breakers. This walkway is nicknamed “Little Havana” because the sun-drenched buildings and sweeping sea views closely resemble those in Cuba. (The area really did remind us of our time in Havana — similarly styled buildings, similar light, similar ocean views, and even the friendliness of the local folks.)

Figs versus palms — a contest of verdancy! As we approached the heavily-foliaged parks, the trees formed a protective canopy over the road.

We drove past the city’s beautiful coastal park, Parque Genovés. Its waterfront promenade is famous for stunning black-and-white tiled checkerboard plazas, known as the Tablero de Ajedrez. We were short of time, or we would have gladly gotten off the bus for a long, romantic walk through this beautiful space.

These striking geometric floors covered the ground beneath a canopy of massive, ancient Moreton Bay fig trees and topiary hedges. What a contrast the manicured gardens were to the dramatic views of the Atlantic Ocean!

Be beer.
My friend.
Be Maier.
- slogan seen on a woman's T-shirt

The above advertisement phrase is a clever pun on the famous martial artist/philosopher Bruce Lee’s quote, “Be water, my friend.”

When we saw this T-shirt, we hoped we might find a craft brewery in the area. But alas, Cerveza Maier was once a craft brewery based in Cádiz, but it’s no longer in operation. The pandemic shutdown did them in. Still, we liked the slogan on the T-shirt — it brought smiles to our faces!

3 PM came all too soon. All the passengers were back on board, and we set sail for our last port of call — Lisbon, Portugal — on this segment of our cruise, Western Africa and Isles of Wonder.

Madeira is described as the “Island of Eternal Spring.” Entirely volcanic in origin, the soil combined with the mild climate produces an abundance of green and multicolored vegetation. The rugged landscape, scenic fishing villages, magnificent vistas, and ideal climate have earned the island a reputation as a year-round resort. Before leaving this panoramic Atlantic isle, be sure to sample a glass of the famous Madeira wine. — Regent

• Daytime High Temperature: Approximately 70°F to 73°F, often feeling warmer in direct sun.

• Nighttime Low Temperature: Around 61°F to 64°F, providing comfortable evenings.

• Rainfall: Very low probability of rain. The month sees only 6-8 days of rainfall, usually brief, light showers.

• Sea Temperature: The ocean temperature will be around 66°F. 

• Daylight: There will be about 14 hours of daylight, with the sun rising around 7:00 AM and setting around 8:50 PM local time.

By the time we discovered that the tour we’d booked six months ago involved extensive uphill and downhill walking, an activity that my knee has been loudly complaining about, we had limited options from which to choose. However, it turned out to be a blessing in disguise. We booked the HOP ON HOP OFF BUS AND MADEIRA WINE TASTING, a Regent-included tour, which gave us a lot of flexibility to explore on our own, and at our own pace. And since we were at the mercy of our whims, our DIY tour included an art museum, a garden walk, and a stop for beer.

Description: Ride a double-decker bus around Funchal and into the villages on the outskirts, hopping on and off at places that interest you most. With a detailed map in hand that describes the more than 20 destinations where the buses stop, you will find all sorts of attractions to your liking.

We enjoyed the nearly two-hour loop through Funchal and the adjoining area. Much of the route bordered the coast, so for much of the ride we had city views on one side and ocean/garden views on the other — always something of interest.

Midway in the tour, we headed to Pico dos Barcelos, the highest point in Funchal, where the views of the town and sea were amazing. While we saw many photogenic places and took many photographs, keep in mind we were traveling on the upper floor of a rambling bus as it bounced over cobblestone streets and barreled along mountain roads. Most of our photos, while giving us a sense of the place, are not photos for sharing. Suffice it to say, we passed dozens of interesting and noteworthy places.

We enjoyed the tour, especially since this was our first visit to Madeira, and we had wanted to get an overall feel for the place. During the panoramic ride, we began making a list of places we wanted to visit on some future trip! (For example, a tour of the historic embroidery factory and perhaps a hands-on workshop, the wine lodges, the Cabo Girão Skywalk, and the farmer’s market.) This is an island we would definitely enjoy returning to for a longer visit.

Once we’d finished the route, we remained on the bus and repeated the route until Stop #3 (Teleférico/Old Town). There, we got off at the cable car boarding station and began our independent exploration.

Note: Included in the tour was a wine sample tasting at Blandy’s Wine Lodge, a place with more than 200 years of experience in Funchal’s wine history, but since only one of us drinks wine and we had limited time, we skipped that stop.

We purchased round-trip tickets to Monte for €22 per person. The cable car took us from the Old Town area up to the historic hilltop village. The 2-mile journey took about 15 minutes each way.

The views were quite panoramic, with 360-degree views of Funchal’s wide bay, its red-tiled roofs, and the dramatic mountains in the distance. We arrived at the top cable car station ready to explore! We’d found a garden and art museum on our map, located next to the station — that was our destination. But we had no preconceived idea of where we were going or what we would see. We were shocked when we arrived at the entrance. The entire Monte village complex was HUGE!

The top station of the Funchal Cable Car places you in the heart of Monte village, with several iconic attractions just minutes away! Directly opposite the station exit sits the entrance to the sprawling Monte Palace Tropical Garden. This is where we ended up spending all of our time — and we saw only a fraction of the gardens in the 2.5 hours we were there. We wished we had lots more time!

We would have liked to visit the Church of Our Lady of Monte, check out the scenic Largo das Babosas viewpoint, and ride the Monte Toboggan Sleds all the way down the hill! Plus, there was another garden, the Madeira Botanical Garden, which required another cable car ride. (I’m adding all of these highlights to our to-do-next-time list!)

We spent the afternoon at The Monte Palace Tropical Garden, a vast, multi-level botanical paradise covering 17 acres on a hilltop overlooking Funchal. It featured an extraordinary collection of over 100,000 plant species, historic architecture, lakes, wildlife, and extensive art collections. We were already overwhelmed, and we’d only paid the admission price — €18 per person — and walked through the front gate.

So we did what any sane, but overwhelmed person would do — we stopped for lunch at the casual Greehouse Cafe. Sherpa ordered turkey quiche and salad while I had a smashburger. The food was hearty and delicious. Sherpa also had a beer while I enjoyed a latte.

Sagres is brewed by Sociedade Central de Cervejas, a Portuguese brewery founded in 1934. It is the most popular Portuguese beer. 5% ABV. N/A IBUs.

Sherpa’s Take: “Light-bodied, smooth, bright. A beach beer, but an enjoyable one.” 6/10.

We visited the Monte Palace Madeira Museum after lunch. The museum is in a three-story building at the highest point of the garden. From this spot in the garden, everything is a steep downhill climb, and then an uphill return. It’s one of the reasons we went out on our own — we wanted to be able to walk as much, or as little, as was comfortable.

On the ground floor of the museum, there was an extensive collection of minerals and precious stones; the first and second floors had collections of Modern and Contemporary art.

We paused at the terrace seating area near the museum’s first-floor entrance, where a variety of sculptures and Portuguese tiles were exhibited. We recognized the technique in the terrace’s signature piece, Multicolor Diorama, by artist VHILS. We saw another of his chiseled artworks while walking the streets of Mindelo, Cape Verde — a massive portrait of Cesária Évora. It was satisfying to begin to recognize some of the well-known Portuguese artists!

The tile collection on display in Monte Palace Tropical Garden included examples dating from the 16th to the 21st centuries. It demonstrated the diversity of what is considered one of Portugal’s greatest artistic expressions.

Azuelos refers to a form of painted and glazed ceramic tilework. They are a prominent architectural feature in Spain, Portugal, and their former colonies. The word azuelos comes from the Arabic az-zulayj, which translates to “small polished stone”. While it sounds similar to the Spanish/Portuguese word for “blue” (azul), this is purely coincidental, even though many of the tiles feature a distinctive blue-and-white motif. I always thought the name referred to the color blue, so it was fascinating to learn the true etymology of azuelos.

We enjoyed walking through the galleries and studying Portuguese artists with whom we were unfamiliar, as well as their art. We took the time to study these large-scale artworks by Portuguese artist Manuela Pimentel, which resemble traditional Portuguese tiles from a distance.

We walked through the rest of the contemporary art exhibit and were impressed not only by the art, but also by the minimalist, well-designed exhibition space.

Finally, it was time to brave a few of the pathways leading deeper into the gardens. We could have spent an entire day here and still not been able to walk all of the pathways.

Scattered along the lush garden walking paths was a large collection of Zimbabwean stone sculptures (“African Passion”).

What an amazing multi-layered labyrinth, filled with dozens of intersecting pathways, hidden grottoes, lakes, and bridges. We barely touched the surface!

We returned to Funchal’s Old Town by cable car around 4 PM, and then walked along the coastal gardens on our return stroll to the ship.

Along the way, we admired Funchal’s sidewalks, pieces of art in themselves. They’re covered in a traditional art form known as Calçada Portuguesa or Portuguese Pavement. The paths are intricate stone mosaics crafted with dark volcanic basalt and imported white limestone, and hammered into the ground piece by piece by local craftspeople.

Some are traditional patterns; some are complex. One of the more effective patterns is this quite simple, wide swath of “water,” which represents Portugal’s historic seafaring identity and its ties to the Atlantic Ocean.

As we were approaching the Mariner, we stopped to “admire” this colorful fish. Plastic Mero is a public sculpture created by renowned Portuguese street artist and “art-ivist” Artur Bordalo, also known as Bordalo II. Installed in September 2019, the artwork represents the Atlantic goliath grouper (mero in Portuguese), an endangered species. It was built entirely from recycled plastic debris gathered during a massive clean-up campaign in 2018. Local fishermen and residents pulled thousands of pounds of garbage from Madeira’s waters, and this fish was one of the results.

We sailed from Funchal around 6 PM, and since sunset was late, we had plenty of sunlight to “sail and see.” We cruised south along the coastline of Madeira and watched as the island became less and less inhabited.

We finally reached the southernmost bit of the island, a strip of wilderness that is a protected National Park. Sunset was about 9 PM — a sure sign that we’re sailing in the Northern Hemisphere, and approaching the time of the Summer Solstice.

Madeira was a wonderful stop.

Next port of call — Lisboa, and the end of this segment of our cruise, the 24-day, Cape Town, South Africa to Lisbon, Portugal, Western Africa and Isles of Wonder.

Discover gorgeous Santa Cruz de La Palma with its colorful buildings, 18th-Century mansions, and wrought-iron balconies draped with lush bougainvillea, dramatic volcanic mountains, and fertile green valleys set amid a pristine turquoise sea. Explore the star-shaped 17th-Century Castillo de Santa Catarina fortress. Then visit the Moorish-influenced Iglesia de El Salvador to admire the luminous stained-glass windows. Stroll along O’Daly Street browsing through lovely boutiques, antique and artisan shops. Enjoy a glass of fine Canary Island wine in a jewel-like setting. — Regent

Our Pre-Cruise Research:

• Daytime High Temperature: Approximately 73°F to 77°F.

• Nighttime Low Temperature: Around 63°F to 66°F.

• Rainfall: The chance of rain is extremely low; The Canary Islands are very dry at this time of year.

• Humidity: Moderate and comfortable, around 70%.

• Sunshine: Expect ample sunshine with predominantly clear skies.

• Ideal Weather: May is an excellent time to visit La Palma, with stable, warm weather that is not excessively hot.

• Daylight: The sun will rise around 7:06 AM and set around 8:54 PM local time.

We signed up for CALDERA DE TABURIENTE, a 4.5-hour, Regent-included tour.

Description: Wonder at the sensational vistas of the world’s largest erosion crater, explore a majestic national park, and visit one of the island’s oldest, most stunning churches.

• Enjoy a sojourn to Our Lady of the Snows church in Las Nieves, one of the island’s oldest sanctuaries, where you’ll see a beautiful altarpiece made of Mexican silver, several 16th-century Flemish sculptures, and the namesake terracotta statue of the Virgin Mary.

• Stop at a local artisanal cigar manufacturer, the heritage of La Palma emigrants to Cuba.

• Continue to La Concepción, a lookout offering a remarkable view of Santa Cruz de la Palma.

• Relax over Canarian appetizers at an eco-agricultural venue and walk the flowering gardens.

• Drive inland to La Cumbrecita, an elevated viewing area on the southeastern side of the Caldera de Taburiente, a massive depression rimmed by soaring rock walls. Gaze at lofty wooded gorges and rocky cliffs.

After we wound through town and up a series of steep mountain road switchbacks, we arrived at our first stop — Our Lady of the Snows Church in Las Nieves. The current church was built in 1646 after a volcanic eruption damaged the original structure.

Although the church’s exterior was quite plain, featuring dark-brown, volcanic stone construction, white-plastered walls, and traditionally carved wooden balconies, the interior told a different story.

A walk through the interior of the church revealed a magnificently carved wooden ceiling, a glittering 17th-century altar wrapped in silver, and red brocade wall hangings. (During the 16th and 17th centuries, rich merchants who traded with Cuba, Venezuela, and Peru donated some of their immense fortunes to provide the sanctuary with priceless art.)

A 14th-century Gothic terracotta statue of the Virgin Mary, dressed in silk robes and surrounded by cherubs, stood in a place of honor high above the altar. This small artifact is the oldest religious sculpture in the Canary Islands, and plenty of legends surround its origin. Long before the Spanish colonized the Canary Islands, the indigenous people worshiped this statue of Mary in one of the island’s many caves. Was it washed ashore from a shipwreck? Was it brought to the island by earlier missionaries?

No matter its origins, the islanders view the figure as a Divine Protectress, and people to this day come to this small church to petition Mary for relief from suffering and catastrophe.

The church ceiling was of special interest. The Mudéjar ceiling was of an intricate architectural style that developed in Spain between the 12th and 16th centuries.

It’s an unusual, artistic hybrid that emerged when Christian kingdoms reconquered territories under Islamic rule. Instead of destroying everything, Christian rulers hired Mudéjares—Muslim artists and craftspeople who remained in Christian territory—to build and decorate their palaces, castles, and churches.

We walked around the church and noticed this inviting driveway leading up into the hills. This island was filled with all sorts of hideaways, winding roads, secretive pathways — it felt like one could live here for years and still not discover all of the island’s secrets. And we were only here for a matter of hours, and hadn’t even scratched the surface.

After the church visit, we drove to the Breña Alta neighborhood, home of La Palma’s handcrafted cigar culture. Walking past storefronts, we noticed many people sitting at worktables, practicing the fine craft of hand-rolling cigars.

We stopped at Morris La Palma Cigars and learned that local artisans use traditional techniques brought back by 19th-century emigrants from Cuba.

In the 19th century, thousands of Canarians emigrated to Cuba to work as tobacco fieldhands. When they returned to La Palma, they brought back Cuban seeds, cultivation secrets, and the art of hand-rolling premium cigars.

The showroom was filled with a huge variety of cigar-related items for sale, plus rooms selling other Canarian items. But since neither Sherpa nor I indulges in cigar smoking, nor does anyone we know, we purchased more practical, non-smoking-related gifts — Sherpa found two locally brewed bottles of beer; I got a “three cigar” leather case, which I’ve re-purposed to hold my fountain pens!

We next stopped at a famous viewpoint called La Concepción Overlook, because it sits on the rim of crescent-shaped Risco de la Concepción crater. The point offered panoramic views of the town of Santa Cruz, the bustling port, and the Atlantic Ocean. The crater was formed approximately 400,000 years ago through powerful underwater explosions when rising magma interacted with seawater.

We were surprised to see desert plants in this climate. A bit of research revealed the reason — the lookout sits below 1300 feet, so this area doesn’t get the dense cloud cover found at the higher elevations. Thus, it receives minimal annual rainfall and intense sunlight, creating an arid habitat similar to a true desert!

Our third stop was at an out-of-the-way eco-lodge and gardens called Finca La Principal Agroturismo. The estate sits in Buenavista de Arriba, an area designated as a Protected Landscape Natural Reserve for its lush, native flora.

We enjoyed snacks and beverages in an outdoor gazebo setting, then were invited to walk the property at our leisure.

We followed this trail through a grove of avocado trees, walked through flower gardens beneath towering palm trees, and tried to avoid the roaming peacocks and ducks.

We’ve never been this close to such heavily fruited avocado trees! We could have reached out and picked a bushel in minutes!

Quaint, out-of-the-way sitting areas, a small inground pool, walking trails, herb gardens, and a small marketplace selling local goods were some of the venue’s highlights — a delightful stop for a bite and a walk.

After our time at Finca La Principal Agroturismo, we boarded our tour bus for the drive to our last stop, the spectacular Parque Nacional de la Caldera de Taburiente.

We took the island’s cross-summit highway, bypassing the park’s massive volcanic depression since driving through the center is, of course, impossible. Instead, we headed to Mirador de La Cumbrecita, which rewarded us with spectacular panoramic views of pine forests and the towering peaks of the northern ridge. The biggest surprise, however, was when we emerged from the far side of the tunnel into bright sunshine!

As is incredibly common, we entered the eastern side of the tunnel under a grey, somewhat foggy sky. After driving through the 1.6-mile-long underground passage, we came out the western exit into brilliant sunshine, bright blue skies, and warmer temperatures! And as we looked back towards the mountains, we could see the clouds slipping over the peaks.

This cloud effect is a natural phenomenon known locally as the “Cloud Waterfall.” (The wet, cool trade winds blow constantly from the northeast, pushing the heavy ocean clouds directly against the eastern side of the mountain ridge. Because the mountains form a massive wall, the clouds pack together until they reach the top of the ridge. Once they hit the crest, they spill over the peaks on the western side and look exactly like a slow-motion waterfall of mist.) It really did look like a slow-motion cloud waterfall!

This area has been designated as an Important Bird Area because it hosts several rare, endemic species. We were with other birders in our group, and confirmed sightings of two special birds. We saw several Red-billed Choughs, the most famous bird in the park. While extinct on the other Canary Islands, this glossy blackbird has a distinctive, bright red, curved beak and still thrives in loud flocks around the caldera rim. And we also saw a handful of Plain Swifts swooping on the side of the mountain. These are medium-sized swifts, very similar to the Common Swift, but paler, and seen only in the Madeira and Canary Islands.

After exploring the vista for half an hour, we returned to the cruise port. This was a very satisfactory excursion, giving us a good feel for the island — a historic church visit, the cigar factory stop, a garden visit with snacks and drinks, and finally a drive to a national park and time to explore. Nicely done!

It was a fifteen-minute walk from the cruise terminal to downtown, so we walked into the city center after our tour. It was an almost perfect day, weather-wise — sunny and mid-70s — and yet we had nearly exhausted our water supply during the long morning excursion. What to do?

We joined “half the crew” at the McDonald’s, which was well-situated halfway between the ship’s berth and town. They were excited to eat “real fast food”; we were curious to see how the fountain Coke Zero would measure up to the Diet Coke served at our local McD’s. The crew seemed quite happy with their food! And we were quite happy with our fizzy fountain soda.

There were dozens of shops, cafes, and boutiques on the narrow streets. Unfortunately, siesta time curtailed our shopping time. Fortunately, we were still able to find quite a few stores that had stayed open “because of the ship,” and we did an hour of speed shopping. Sherpa returned to the ship with two new shirts, I found a summery dress, and we found a couple of gifts for our younger grandchildren. An overall fun afternoon!

We had originally hoped to visit the interior of Iglesia Matriz de El Salvador, which overlooked the iconic Plaza de España. This is the island’s primary church, and dates back to the 16th century. But on the Canary Islands, the churches also take siestas! We had to be satisfied with enjoying a view of the exterior. Never fear, we still had a lovely day in Santa Cruz de la Palma.

Nestled in a bay ringed by mountains, Mindelo is the pride and joy of the island of São Vicente. Delight in a scene enlivened by music that is certain to move you. For an auditory experience, visit the new Floating Music Hub, a project by the visionary architect-designer Kunlé Adeyemi. Art lovers can stroll along the picturesque harbor of Porto Grande, which offers a diverse collection of paintings, ceramics, and woodwork, or climb Monte Verde to enjoy sweeping views of the bay. Experience the vibrant Mercado Municipal or the historic Fortim d’El-Rei, which shimmers with glimpses into the city’s past. — Regent

Expected Conditions from Pre-cruise Research:

• Daytime High Temperature: Approximately 77°F to 81°F. (Our actual high temperature was a toasty 86°F.)

• Nighttime Low Temperature: Around 68°F to 70°F.

• Rainfall: The chance of rain is virtually 0%. The islands are very arid during this season. (The island had a decided desert feel.)

• Humidity: The relative humidity is moderate, typically around 68%, making the air feel comfortable and dry. (Yes, to comfortable.)

• Sunshine: Expect ample sunshine with predominantly clear or partly cloudy skies. (Yes, to sun, but it was windy, and so the air was hazy with dust.)

• Ideal Weather: May offers excellent weather for outdoor activities, combining warmth, comfortable humidity, and cooling trade winds.

• Sun Protection: The UV index will be high; use sunscreen and protective clothing when outdoors.

We booked the MINDELO - THE CULTURAL CAPITAL excursion, a 3.50-hour, Regent-included excursion.

Experience the historical and folkloric heartbeat of Mindelo on this enriching coach and walking tour through its cultural museum, open-air market, historic quarter, and in a traditional dance performance. You’ll stop at charming Praça Nova, a colonial square that offers a glimpse into the city’s casual social life. Notice Mindelo’s well-preserved colonial buildings and monuments commemorating key historical events, and see the striking Belem Tower, a replica of the famed Lisbon original, that pays homage to the island’s discovery in 1642 on Saint Vincent’s Day. You’ll browse Praça Estrela, a thriving marketplace where West African merchants display wares ranging from handmade crafts to fine jewelry, and the historic quarter where each street cradles more architectural wonders and surprising national treasures. Cap off your adventure by watching a traditional dance performance complemented with a glass of ponche, a traditional island cocktail, presented with great pride by these socially diverse islanders. (Because the Cape Verdean Cultural Center was damaged in last year’s hurricane, a substitution was made — a visit to the Centro Nacional de Artesanato e Design (CNAD), which is a prominent cultural institution and museum, renowned for its striking, colorful facade made from 2,500 recycled barrel lids.)

The pedestrian walking path connecting the cruise ship dock to the city center was lined with public art, including murals featuring Cape Verdean themes that covered several walls of the nearby warehouses. We boarded small buses here and headed towards the city.

We first drove from the port to a nearby panoramic lookout, Fortim do Rei, the ruins of a 19th-century colonial fort, which offered unobstructed views of Porto Grande Bay, the Mindelo Marina, and the colorful city rooftops below. Our guide used several visual aids throughout the tour to help explain geography, history, local currency, and the symbolism of their flag.

Mindelo does have its share of beautifully constructed colonial buildings, many painted in bright, vibrant colors.

We had a great view of the Mariner, docked in the harbor, considered one of the finest and safest natural harbors in the Atlantic Ocean. The harbor, Porto Grande, owes its unique geography to an ancient volcanic crater that collapsed and filled with seawater. This created a perfect, crescent-shaped bay spanning more than a mile in radius.

Our guide explained that the British Empire stored major coal deposits here in the mid-1800s. Because Porto Grande sat at the crossroads of many transatlantic shipping lanes, it became an indispensable refueling stop for fleets traveling between Europe, South Africa, and South America. This single-handedly transformed Mindelo from an isolated island into a booming port city.

After the lookout stop, we returned to the waterfront by bus, then began the walking part of our tour. The pedestrian route along Avenida Marginal was packed with cultural and historical monuments and unique architecture. Not to mention, lots of boats and birds. Several gray herons were intently fishing from submerged and floating boats, and were quite successful in their endeavors.

We walked past these “triangle buildings,” the Mansa Floating Hub, which is a colorful, eye-catching landmark anchored directly in the water. Traditional African nautical architecture, sails, and woven geometric patterns inspired the sharp roofs of the three overlapping triangular structures. It’s a cultural center, featuring a live music venue, a recording studio, and a floating bar/restaurant. (Closed when we went past.)

The Blue Marlin Statue is a sculpture of a giant marlin leaping out of the water. The life-sized sculpture celebrates Cape Verde’s status as one of the world’s premier destinations for big-game sport fishing, particularly renowned for record-breaking Atlantic blue marlin.

“Abril Bo” translates from Cape Verdean Creole to “You are April” ( which is short for Mindelo, Abril bo é poesia — ”Mindelo, you are poetry.”) “Abril Bo” has become a slogan used throughout the city to celebrate the area’s cultural heritage.

A massive portrait of Cesária Évora, Cape Verde’s legendary “Barefoot Diva” and Grammy-award-winning singer, was carved into the side of this three-story building by the world-renowned Portuguese street artist Vhils. Instead of using paint, Vhils used his signature bas-relief chiseling technique to etch the likeness directly into the building’s facade.

Our next scheduled stop was at the Mercado de Peixe, or Fish Market — a busy, indoor market where local fishermen unload fresh daily catches from the dock, and they are either sold or processed.

I’ve got to admit, if you’ve seen one or two or maybe even a half dozen fish markets, there isn’t much need to see another one. We have visited fish markets from Asia, South America, Australia, and Europe. On this cruise, we’ve added several more stops at African fish markets. I may have seen as many fish markets as I need to see in my lifetime. Not that you can’t get an interesting photo of a pile of fish, but I’ve reached my quota.

We stopped to chat with a young man eager to show off his football jersey. Perhaps Cabo Verde’s team motto is “no stress?” Nice! I think I’ll “no stress” about skipping any more visits to fish markets.

Next stop, the always-included stop to a souvenir place, this one was referred to as “The African Market.” A quick perusal of the stalls showed the same variety of wood, textiles, masks, and fridge magnets we’ve seen at all the markets in Western Africa.

We walked through the adjoining vegetable market instead. Wish we could have challenged someone to a game of Foosball! In Cape Verdean Creole and Portuguese, Foosball is known as matrecos and played everywhere — including, apparently, at this open-air market. Sherpa was quite the foosball player when he was a student in law school. Many a night, he’d hang out at Pippin’s, a local bar on Rush Street in Chicago, drinking beer (no surprise there) and challenging newbies to a game of Foosball (for beer money). Perhaps he could have won a Strela if he’d challenged a local foosballer to a game!

Next stop on our walking tour was the Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Luz (Church of Our Lady of the Light), located just a short walk from the market.

This charming colonial church featured a soft pastel facade with a central bell tower, reflecting classic 19th-century Portuguese styling. Built in 1862, it is the oldest church in Mindelo.

A central medallion, or fresco painting, was painted in the center of the nave’s ceiling. The vibrant blue oval frame stood out dramatically against the wood paneling, encasing a portrait of the Virgin Mary (Our Lady of the Light) looking down upon the congregation. Quite a change from the more typical paintings we’ve seen in most Catholic Churches. Very simple, yet very effective.

We then took a quick walk along the central aisle of the indoor vegetable market in the Mercado Municipal. Housed in a restored 19th-century colonial building, this well-organized, two-story indoor market was filled with the aromas of fresh herbs and local produce.

Piles of tomatoes, peppers, yams, bananas, papayas, herbs, and local Cape Verdean goat’s cheese were in abundance. And there were many displays of home-bottled hot sauces, honey, and herbal remedies, too — wouldn’t those be interesting to examine more closely!

To conclude our walking tour, we stopped at a third-floor venue for entertainment and refreshments. The space was expansive, with windows overlooking the harbor, and a large bar and seating area. This is likely a thriving nightclub at night. But by day, it was a convivial setting for our gathering.

A couple, whose names we did not get, shared traditional dancing while several musicians accompanied them. Their low-key, Portuguese-style music paired well with a variety of savory finger foods and several drink options, including beer, soda, and a traditional local liqueur called Ponche.

While the standard molasses-and-lime version is the most authentic Ponche, we were also offered a peanut variety and one with tamarind. It was pleasant to try.

Strela Kriola is Cape Verde’s signature local Pilsner-style beer. Produced nationally by the brewery CERIS, “Strela” means “star” in Cape Verdean Creole. CERIS brewery is located in Praia, the capital city of Cape Verde, on the southern island of Santiago. 5% ABV and N/A IBU.

Sherpa’s Take: “A refreshing, light-bodied beach beer with a bit of sweetness and fruity overtones. I’d drink it again, especially in the tropics on a hot day. Others in our group (who favor this type of beer) proclaimed it a 6.5 or 7. For me, it was a solid 6/10.”

The final stop of our comprehensive tour was a visit to the Centro Nacional de Artesanato. The country’s premier art hub is immediately recognizable by its exterior wall, which was created from 2,500 colorful barrel lids. It functions as a world-class archive, exhibition space, and a workshop dedicated to preserving local panaria — or weaving — traditions, alongside modern African art.

The institution was originally founded with the motto “não deixar morrer a tecelagem”—“don’t let the weaving die”. The museum’s permanent exhibitions’ major focus is all about preserving Pano di Terra, the traditional Cape Verdean textile handwoven from cotton threads on narrow strip looms, sometimes hung alone and sometimes sewn together to create large blankets or other weavings.

Artists weave the traditional panels and then add elaborate details to create unique pieces of art.

Aren’t they gorgeous? See the strips?

Another room held a display of wooden household items, highlighting how islanders historically fused utility with fine artistry. This tray is an elaborate wooden puzzle with an embedded story.

These rows of textured tree trunks are large-scale examples of traditional basketry and wicker weaving, each one handwoven from local fibers, such as dried banana tree stalks or coastal reeds. The columns represent Cape Verde’s historical reliance on the land, showcasing how early islanders used the vegetation to make functional containers, mats, and thatch.

The architecture of this art museum is an internationally celebrated masterpiece of sustainable, low-impact urban design. Completed in 2022, it bridges Mindelo’s past and future using incredible structural details.

The entrance and front galleries were created in the renovated rooms of Casa Senador Vera-Cruz—one of Mindelo’s oldest, most formal 19th-century colonial residences. A courtyard connects the historic house to the new, five-story gallery tower built right in its former backyard.

The back gallery hosted a painting exhibit. By now, we were running out of our allotted time, so we only had a glance. We were grateful to visit, and as always, there wasn’t enough time for our art explorations.

(We know that “more time for art” is a specific issue of ours, but not everyone. Some folks on the tour chose to forgo looking at the art entirely, commenting that they “hate all art.” Luckily, there is usually enough variety on excursions to satisfy everyone.)

We admired small ceramic figures, carved wooden sculptures, and metal-and-glass orb creations — so much personality in each one. And we purchased a locally-crafted, six-inch-tall figurine, similar to the first figure (on the left).

After our visit to the art and design museum, we boarded our bus and returned to the port. A nicely executed, included tour.

After we returned to the ship, Sherpa walked back into town. He was in search of another local beer. Along the way, he visited the expansive beach we had driven past earlier. Laginha Beach featured incredibly clear, turquoise water and soft white sand, set against the backdrop of the mountains. Gorgeous!

Sherpa took a photo of the Coca-Cola signs that we searched for at each port of call. (I’ll have to do a post on the ubiquitousness of Coca-Cola throughout the world once we return home!)

Grocery stores are always powerhouses of cultural insight. When we step inside a local grocery store, we bypass the tourist facade and see how the locals actually live, eat, and celebrate. Plus, supermarkets often sell the local beers. Sherpa picked up a couple of bottles for another upcoming onboard beer tasting party.

Goodbye, Mindelo! We enjoyed our excursion, getting to know the downtown area on foot, and our stay. This would be a delightful place to return for a longer visit.

We enjoyed drinks in the Observation Lounge as we watched the Mariner sail away from Mindelo, Cape Verde… and Africa! We arrived on the continent of Africa on April 25 (Seychelles) — our seventh continent! — and set foot on the mainland of Africa on May 2 (Mozambique). Since then, we have visited thirteen African countries, gone on a five-day safari, walked the Namib Desert, visited world-class art museums in Cape Town, South Africa, voodoo sites in Benin, and UNESCO World Heritage sites related to the history of the slave trade in Benin and Senegal, plus we’ve added 195 species to our birding Life List and Sherpa added 17 Destination Beers to his World List of Beers.…and we’ve seen and done so much more.

We bid farewell to Africa — and toast her hospitality and generosity — as we now sail to the Canary Islands and Madeira (and then a few stops on mainland Europe.)

Dakar is the capital city of Senegal, located on the Cap-Vert Peninsula at the westernmost point of mainland Africa. Surrounded on three sides by the Atlantic Ocean, this bustling metropolis of over 4 million people serves as the economic, political, and cultural hub of French-speaking West Africa. It is globally renowned for its deep historical roots, striking modern infrastructure, world-class music scene, and the legendary hospitality of its people. — Regent

According to our pre-cruise research, we could expect:

• Daytime High Temperatures: Approximately 82°F to 86°F. (Accurate!)

• Nighttime Low Temperatures: Around 68°F to 72°F.

• Humidity: Moderate to high (around 84%) but generally less oppressive than during the upcoming wet season. (It was hot and sticky when standing in the sun, but pleasant in the shade.)

• Precipitation: Very low probability of rain (essentially 0% chance). May is typically a rainless month in Dakar.

• Sunshine: Expect about 9 hours of bright sunshine per day with predominantly clear skies.

• Sea Temperature: The ocean temperature will be around 70°F. (Lots of people were swimming off Gorée Island!)

• Sun Protection: The UV index is expected to be Extreme (11+).

• Attire: Light, breathable clothing is highly recommended for comfort in the heat. Remember, this is a predominantly Muslim country, and tradition requires modest clothing. Covering shoulders and knees — for both sexes — is highly encouraged and seen as a sign of respect.

• Best Time to Visit: The dry season (November to May) is generally considered the ideal time to visit Senegal, with pleasant conditions and minimal weather disruptions.

• Activities: The great weather is perfect for exploring coastal areas or visiting attractions like the Bandia Reserve or Gorée Island.

The African Art Immersion excursion that we’d pre-booked last December, and were really looking forward to, was canceled at the last minute “due to operational issues,” i.e. there weren’t enough participants (nine) to make it worthwhile for the tour operator. Considering our group would have invested the equivalent of almost $1400 USD in this 3.5-hour tour — and given that the average monthly income for a professional Dakarois is about $700 USD — one has to wonder. It does seem that excursions that heavily feature art are frequently canceled — this is our third art-centric excursion cancellation since we boarded in Singapore on April 5th.

There are times when we needed to pivot, and this was one of those times. We were able to substitute a Regent-included excursion, Unforgettable Goree Island, which also sounded interesting. (We got the last remaining tickets.)

The Mariner didn’t dock in Dakar until 11 AM, quite late for a port arrival, and our excursion wasn’t scheduled to meet until 2:35 PM. We were scheduled to leave Dakar for Cape Verde at 9 PM. Odd hours to work around, especially since the excursion met from 2:35 PM to 7:35 PM. I was still pondering the canceled art excursion, and was curious if we could recreate at least part of it independently. Conveniently, a city representative was on board, sharing maps and advice. “Yes, we could walk to the Museum of Black Civilizations, about a mile from the ship.” “No, they would not take credit cards for admission tickets, only the local currency, but we could take the shuttle bus to Independence Square and use an ATM there.” “From the square we could take a taxi to the museum.” “Yes, there would be plenty of taxis available for hire.” “Yes, there would be shops and restaurants open on the square, even though it was the city’s business center and it was a Sunday.”

The city representative was correct some of the time, but not always. We could take the shuttle bus to Independence Square and use an ATM there, and we did. From the square, we might have been able to take a taxi to the museum, if there had been one, but none were in sight. No, there were no shops or restaurants open on the square — the area was undergoing a massive rebuilding project.

Considering the inaccuracies in the available information and that few people spoke English, we made what we felt was the most expedient decision. We aborted any thought of independent touring, something we had quite successfully managed throughout North America, Europe, Asia, Australia, and South America, and went on the Regent-included excursion. Travel in Africa, especially on Sundays and in the non-English speaking countries, can feel complicated, especially when we need to meet the ship’s onboard deadlines.

In retrospect, we made a wise decision. We met the Destination Services team on shore at 2:30 PM. It seemed that nearly every passenger on board the Mariner had chosen this particular excursion! (Not every passenger; only 240 of us!) To be honest, the number of excursions available in most ports on this itinerary is limited. Some of the West African cities lack the infrastructure and/or personnel to support a wide variety of tours, and even private options are scarce. However, the local tour operators that show up work very hard to ensure visitors have good experiences, even when options are limited, and they are usually successful!

There was a bit of a snafu at the beginning. The chartered ferry — only one of the two island ferries was operational, and Regent had booked a private crossing for our large tour group — was an hour late. The guides did a quick calibration and began the tour on the dock. We had an introductory “lesson” while we waited, although the heat, humidity, and an hour standing on cement were a bit much for some guests. (Including me!) But finally, 240 passengers climbed onto the ferry’s two decks and off we went!

Description: Take the ferry to notorious Gorée Island, where, beginning in the 15th century, countless slaves were held before being shipped to the New World. Now a UNESCO World Heritage site, this island was once the largest slave-trading center on the African coast. In the House of Slaves, you will hear the curator’s lecture detailing the cruelty of that time period and see the buildings and cells that housed the men, women, and children who were shackled there. See the Gate of No Return, which marks the spot where the Africans saw their last glimpse of their homeland before boarding ships for the New World. You will then visit Saint Charles Borromeo’s Church and a fortress with a towering monument memorializing the Africans who were brutalized during the slave trade. During free time, you can wander about the stark island. Your time on Gorée Island will be unforgettable.

Gorée Island is a tiny island located only 2 miles off the coast of Dakar. Our ferry took only twenty minutes to transit the bay, but it felt like we were traveling to a different world and a different century — the buildings were from the colonial-era, the roads were of dirt and cobblestone, there were no vehicles on the island, and the vast majority of local men and women were wearing traditional flowing robes worn over matching trousers for men or wrapped skirts for women.

But there is more to the island than the step back in time. Enclosed on this 70-acre island is the UNESCO World Heritage site serving as a somber symbol of the transatlantic slave trade.

The pastel-painted colonial buildings, clean, sandy beaches, and bougainvillea-lined paths offer a stark visual contrast to the island’s dark and painful past.

Our large group of 240 was divided into smaller groups, led by two men who were not only history lecturers, but also English teachers, translators, and interpreters. We were in good hands. Our first stop was at the House of Slaves, the most visited historical museum on Gorée Island. A museum curator gave a lecture about the structure, its history, and its inhabitants. Since the curator spoke French our tour guide, Adama, translated the lecture into English.

Built by the French in the late 18th century, the two-story building featured a dramatic double-horseshoe staircase. The spacious second floor, where the wealthy traders lived, had high ceilings, large windows to catch the ocean breezes, and elegant verandas. The basement level, where the enslaved were imprisoned, consisted of a series of low, damp, windowless stone cells with rough volcanic rock floors. The courtyard in the middle of the structure was where the captives were paraded, inspected, and weighed, all fully visible to the traders looking down from the upper balconies.

A tour of the building offerd a horrifying glimpse into the vast divide between the wealthy European traders and the captured Africans.

Prisoners were cruelly separated into cramped stone cells based on age and sex, including specific rooms for men, women, and young children.

Windows in slave cells were designed to get smaller toward the outside to prevent escape while letting in minimal light and air. The tiny openings restricted the captives' view of the outside world, too, enforcing a sense of isolation and disorientation.

The Door of No Return is the most infamous part of the House of Slaves. Located at the back of the dark stone basement, this narrow opening looked directly out onto the vast Atlantic Ocean. The enslaved were forced through this door, loaded onto small boats, then transported to the massive slave ships anchored offshore. Most were sent to either Brazil or the Caribbean to work on coffee or sugar cane plantations.

The streets of Gorée Island offer a parallel story —they function as a maze of narrow, peaceful pedestrian alleyways lined with sandy paths, cobblestone passages, and pink flowering bougainvillea bushes. One can get a sense of the lives of the 1600 residents, living behind the colorful walls, just out of view.

After leaving the House of Slaves, we paused at this huge baobab tree. In Senegal, the baobab is a deeply sacred symbol of resilience, longevity, and community strength. Local sand-artists on the island actually harvest the natural sap and gum from the island’s baobab trunks to use as a glue in their creations.

Of course I had to take a photo of this Coca-Cola advertisement — and the only evidence I noticed of Coca-Cola on the island.

We next toured the interior of the Church of Saint Charles Borromeo. Occupying a prominent position in one of the central plazas of the island, this historic Roman Catholic church was completed in 1830 and is one of the oldest standing stone churches in West Africa.

In February 1992, Pope John Paul II visited Saint Charles Borromeo during his pilgrimage to Gorée Island. Standing in this sanctuary, the Pope delivered his historic speech apologizing for the role, complacency, and moral failures of the Catholic Church and Christian traders during the transatlantic slave trade.

Although the rest of Senegal’s population is roughly 90% to 95% Muslim and only 3% to 5% Catholic, Gorée Island’s Catholic population is about 25%. Yet, the church’s history is complex. Enslaved people built this church, but were denied entry until emancipation in 1848. (They participated in the Mass from the adjoining courtyard.)

Steps from the church, we paused at this view of the Atlantic Ocean and Dakar in the far horizon. As we listened to our guide discuss aspects of local life, we heard the call of prayer from the nearby Mosque of Gorée, one of the oldest stone mosques in all of Senegal, built in 1890.

And, as the call to prayer sang out from the east, the bleating of this sheep sounded from the west. “Competition,” called out our guide.

From the coastline we retraced our steps, and headed across the island to the old fort. Along the way, we admired the many buildings painted in various hues of yellow, terracotta, dusty pink, and sky blue, most accented by colorful wooden shutters. Gardens of flowering plants and cacti added beauty and a deep connection to the earth. At times, we felt like we were walking the streets of a European village, not an African island — proof of the lasting French and Portuguese influence on the area.

As we walked, we were accompanied by a flock of huge black birds. One settled on a nearby palm tree, and we were able to get a good look! This Black Kite was an impressive sight! These raptors are common across Senegal, with an estimated urban population of around 7,000 birds in the capital area alone. That’s a lot of birds of prey! Because they are highly adaptable, they frequently nest in the island’s palm trees, ancient baobabs, even on building ledges.

Our final destination on our tour was Fort d’Estrées, built by the French between 1852 and 1856. The circular stone citadel was originally constructed to protect the outskirts of Dakar’s mainland port, but today it houses the Historical Museum of Senegal. Inside its 13 rooms, sparse exhibits offer a glimpse of the country’s history.

Shaded seating and beverages awaited our arrival. We listened to the last of five lectures as we enjoyed a cold drink — it was warmer on the island than we’d anticipated and we were all happy to take a break. Then we had free time before we were to meet near the ferry dock for our return trip back to the ship.

Sherpa climbed to the second level of the fort where he walked along the ramparts and took a few photos of the island, plus panoramic views of the Atlantic Ocean.

As we left the fort, we had plenty of time to admire this painted boat in the front courtyard. This pirogue was an example of the unique wooden boats that are central to Senegal’s coastal identity.

These boats are handcrafted by local builders and covered in vibrant patterns, religious symbols, talisman protections, and in the colors of the Senegalese flag — green, yellow, and red. A functional piece of art!

We stopped frequently as we walked the pathways on the island to admire the colors and architecture.

We didn’t have to walk far from the fort to the harbor (pictured above). Originally, we were told to be at the ferry dock by 6:20 PM for a 6:30 departure. But once we arrived, we were told there would be a longer than anticipated wait. We didn’t board the ferry until after 7 — which meant there was plenty of time to sit down in one of the beach-side restaurants and sample one of the local beers!

La Gazelle is Senegal’s national beer. First brewed in 1929 at the historic SOBOA brewery in Dakar’s Bel-Air district, it is deeply embedded in Senegalese culture and functions as a ubiquitous staple across the country’s bars, beaches, and restaurants.

Sherpa’s Take: “A distinctive beer compared to most of the other Beach Beer styles on our cruise. The beer is not a Pilsner, but it reminds me of Pilsner Urquel. It has a crisp bite - not bland. It has some edges to the taste with an overtone of sweetness and morel mushrooms. Very pleasant and refreshing.” 7/10.

While Sherpa, and quite a few other cruisers, enjoyed sampling the local brew, I enjoyed people watching! I will never lose my sense of awe at the ease in which the local women carry all manner of items on their heads — and seemingly with no effort!

We also had plenty of time to visit with Adama, who sat down at our table as we waited, and shared stories about his life, his family and education, the politics of his country, his many personal successes, and his hopes and dreams. It was a wonderful way to end our tour, adding his personal perspective to the historical one we’d learned about on this five-hour tour. A tour well-done, and highly recommended.

We had quite a wait, but we felt badly for the local folks queuing in line who couldn’t understand why they, too, couldn’t get on our chartered ferry. Some of them had been waiting longer than we had! It was a Sunday evening, and most were anxious to return to their homes in Dakar.

The Mariner was still waiting for us, as the ferry approached the dock with night falling. Once we were all onboard our ship, the crew made preparations for setting sail, and before we’d dropped our belongings in our suite, and arrived at the Observation Lounge to watch sail away, the Mariner was just about ready to pull away from the dock.

We were on our way to our next port of call, and our last stop in Africa: Mindelo, Cape Verde.

The Côte d’Ivoire’s largest city and former capital, the skyscraper-studded Abidjan, curves around the placid Ebrié Lagoon. Being one of the world’s largest French-speaking cities, it’s often referred to as the “Paris of Africa.” Abidjan’s more affluent Le Plateau and Cocody neighborhoods exude a palpable European ambiance. Take in the city’s modern architecture, whether visiting the Cathedrale St. Paul or La Pyramide. — Regent

Once again, our pre-cruise research proved accurate. At least we were forewarned about traveling in the rainy season! But did we listen? Our choices were limited, and so we proceeded…

Daytime High: Approximately 84°F to 86°F. (Right on target.)

Nighttime Low: Around 75°F to 77°F.

The extremely high humidity (often above 85%) contributes to an oppressive “feels-like” temperature.

Precipitation: May is the wettest month of the year for Abidjan. Expect frequent, heavy rainfall, often intense thunderstorms. There is a high probability of rain throughout the day. (correctly predicted!)

Sunshine: Skies will be predominantly cloudy, with limited sunshine due to heavy rain and thick cloud cover.

Attire: A sturdy umbrella or raincoat is essential. (No kidding!)

Activities: Be prepared to adjust outdoor plans in response to heavy rain showers. Focus on indoor activities during peak rainfall. (Easier said than done!)

We chose to go on the tour, Akwaba Abidjan to Bingerville, a 5-hour Regent-choice excursion. The non-discounted price was $149 USD per person, and our discounted price — Seven Seas Platinum and Concierge-level discounts — was $126.65 USD.

Description of the tour: Drive to the City Center Plateau and visit the Museum of Civilization for a demonstration of traditional dances. Then drive to and visit the nearby Cathedral of St. Paul. Drive to Bingerville and visit the Charles Combes Museum. Visit the Botanical Garden and the neighboring Governor’s House, which is now a boys’ orphanage. Drive to the Artisanal Center for a short visit and then return to the pier.

Our first stop was at the city center Museum of Civilizations, a small museum housing a comprehensive archive of about 15,000 historic artifacts. The items represent all five major linguistic groups and various ethnicities across Côte d’Ivoire, and include extensive collections of masks, historic musical instruments, pottery, textiles, and prehistoric weaponry.

Since the museum was under renovation, our tour was limited to a single room displaying a sampling of their collection. We had a museum docent give our group a thorough introduction to the available art and offer insights into the origins and purposes of the different pieces. Well done.

The Statue Colon (colonial statue) genre originated in West Africa during the early 20th century. The style first emerged among the Baoulé people following the collapse of their armed rebellion against French forces in 1911. Local woodcarvers began crafting these figures as a subtle response to foreign occupation.

Baoulé statues are highly celebrated works of African art, carved from wood and made to bridge the physical world and the spirit realm. They are recognized for their “highly refined, serene facial expressions, elaborate hairstyles, and detailed scarification patterns.”

Unlike the sacred masks that are used in secret ceremonies, carved doors were made to be seen by the public. They were typically commissioned by wealthy rulers or chiefs to adorn the entryways of their family compounds.

Following the brief art tour, a quintet of musicians used traditional drums and beaded gourd rattles to create fast rhythmic beats.

Then, a single dancer performed a sacred masquerade dance, mimicking the ultra-fast footwork of UNESCO-recognized traditions like the Zaouli and Goli dances. We were invited to step into the circle, learn some basic steps, and experience the physical coordination required for these fast-paced celebrations. Several cruisers accepted the challenge and did an admirable job.

We couldn’t help but admire this decorated “art” tree in the museum courtyard. The “Akwaba” Welcome Tree featured lots of overlapping figures, faces, and outstretched arms and hands, all facing or reaching towards the sky. The tree is one of many Akwaba monuments of the city.

The tree serves as a bridge, welcoming visitors from the busy and noisy streets of Le Plateau into the museum’s calm, historic learning space.

We had a few extra minutes to walk around the outside of the museum while others were getting photos taken with the dancer and drummers. So we took time to admire the ancient, carved millstones and architectural relics arranged on the lawn. An interesting way to exhibit artifacts!

St. Paul’s Cathedral, the second-largest cathedral on the African continent, also located in the Le Plateau business district, was only a short drive from the Museum of Civilizations. The church, built in 1980-85, is famous for its futuristic, ultra-modern architecture.

Its most striking feature is the massive, concrete cross tower that stands apart from the main building. It resembles a giant figure of Christ with outstretched arms. Seven steel cables, representing the seven sacraments, connect the giant cross to the main cathedral roof, creating a dramatic visual effect.

The church’s interior is just as visually dramatic as its exterior. The church, designed to accommodate up to 5,000 worshipers, has a stunning contrast between the rather sparse concrete exterior and the colorful, light-filled interior illuminated by stained-glass windows. Ethereal and spirit-filled! The dark wood pews, all sourced from African hardwoods, add a strong feeling of groundedness. It’s a wonderful worship space!

Look at that ceiling! Rather than a flat surface, the ceiling features an intricate latticed network of white concrete beams.

The elevated sanctuary is framed by a stained-glass window featuring St. Paul on his way to Damascus. Quite simple.

And instead of huge, heavy crosses hung on the walls, the architect Aldo Spirito designed smaller, abstract crosses made from colored glass that dot the inner concrete walls above the sanctuary. A lovely effect.

Six floor-to-ceiling stained-glass windows span over 1200 feet of exterior/interior walls and depict biblical stories with African themes, such as wildlife, landscapes, and Ivorian people interacting with the early missionaries.

No other Catholic church I’ve ever visited has an elephant prominently displayed in a stained-glass window, but St. Paul’s does! How perfect!

The Baptismal font was crafted to complement the cathedral’s interior materials and features a triangular, poured-concrete basin with limestone footing.

Along the roads of Abidjan, there were roadside plantings and roadside garden stalls everywhere. With the abundant rains, we drove through what was a densely green urban area. It was a refreshing change from the last several ports of call, where greenery seemed to be in short supply.

Although Bingerville is only 13 miles from Abidjan, traffic was heavy. Even with a dedicated police motorcycle escort and with extra traffic cops positioned at major intersections to clear the traffic, it still took us 45 minutes of somewhat chaotic driving. Of course, it was raining, and that added to the traffic snarls.

We arrived at the Charles Combes Museum in Bingerville just as the steady rain became a deluge. (And now, a shout out to the bus drivers — they backed the full-sized coaches into a narrow parking lot so that we wouldn’t have to walk to the museum entrance from the street. Above and beyond — and so appreciated! We still got soaked, especially when we had to trudge through deep puddles, but not as wet as we might have been.)

The museum is housed inside the historic 1905 “Pink House,” the small structure which served as the residence and workshop of the French sculptor and painter, Master Charles Combes. (1891–1968)

A few years after his tour of duty in World War 1, Combes, a classically trained artist, traveled to Côte d’Ivoire. He so loved the landscape, cultures, and traditional art forms that he decided to stay. In 1937, Combes opened a private applied-arts workshop to train local students. This studio evolved and became the Bingerville School of Applied Arts in 1958. Combes really loved this country, and so when Côte d’Ivoire gained independence from France in 1960, he became an Ivorian citizen.

It’s quite easy to imagine the sculptor at work in these rooms, a breeze coming in through the open shuttered windows. He not only lived and worked in this house, but he also provided housing here for some of his students. It must have been a chaotic place, but filled with inspiration and hard work, too.

Within four small galleries, a lifetime of work! The permanent exhibition features 91 works of art, including massive hardwood, plaster, and cement sculptures carved by Combes and his students.

Many of these works capture the traditions, beauty standards, and people of Côte d’Ivoire influenced by Combes’ time spent living in the forest with the Yacouba people.

Combes’ antique motorcycle, which he used to travel around the country, is prominently displayed. (Thanks, Sherpa, for getting this photo once the crowds had moved to a different area.) In my youth, I would gladly have hopped on a motorcycle like this for a ride — and I might have been imagining the adventures Combes experienced, traveling the non-existent roads of rural Africa in the 1930s and 40s.

These sculptures are crafted from a dense Ivorian ironwood known for its hardness and durability. Many were created by Combes’ students, who carved them by hand using his original drawings and field sketches. They really capture the facial structures, scarification, and traditional hairstyles of several Ivorian ethnic groups, particularly the Yacouba, Baoulé, and Lagoon peoples.

The Dying Warrior, 1962, is a wood sculpture made of native Tali. This sculpture was gifted to the late President Houphouët-Boigny by Combes, but is now a part of the museum’s collection.

Unlike most of the museum’s solo works, this monument was a collaborative effort, co-created by three of Charles Combes’ Ivorian art students who worked under his direct supervision. This sculpture was created as a memorial dedicated to the African soldiers who lost their lives fighting in World War I and World War II.

Although we didn’t technically visit the Technical Center of Applied Arts (CTAA), the school was across the parking lot from the museum, and we could see dozens of students diligently working on desk projects as we passed their classrooms or taking breaks under the building’s eaves while avoiding the rain.

Next stop: the Botanical Garden in the historic town of Bingerville. This 140-acre botanical garden was established in 1904; the outdoor arboretum protects native and exotic trees, including giant banyans, many avocado varieties, towering ancient teak trees, and thick stands of yellow and green bamboo.

As you can see from the photos, many on our tour braved the rain and, equipped with raincoats and umbrellas, walked through the grassy park-like gardens. Some mud puddle avoidance techniques were necessary!

These gardens were quite lovely, and we can imagine they are a great place for nature walks and photography when the sun is shining! There were a few poetic scenes — these orange pancake fungi were artistically arranged on this dead wood!

The Western Cattle Egrets, which outnumbered the human arboretum visitors by about 2 to 1, also seemed to pose in pleasing compositions! We’ve been seeing an abundance of these small, compact white herons since we first arrived on the other side of Africa, since we saw our first flock in the lemur sanctuary in Madagascar in late April.

The Botanical Gardens share a border with the Orphanage of Bingerville, which was once the Governor’s Mansion. The botanical garden was originally the formal gardens of the governor’s estate, created by a French Governor in 1904.

And so our next stop was literally next door, as we were scheduled to visit the Orphanage of Bingerville and speak with one of the administrators. The orphanage is a historic, state-run institution that provides full-time education, care, and accommodation for about 250 vulnerable and disadvantaged boys, aged 5 to 25.

The institution is housed in this historic French colonial building that once served as the Governor’s Palace when Bingerville was the nation’s capital. The building itself, while historic and architecturally interesting, must offer its own set of critical challenges. Imagine maintaining the plumbing, the electric, the roof, or even the exterior in this sprawling, century-old structure! Corporate sponsorships provide some financial support to bolster this government-funded institution.

The architecture incorporates rather unique national symbols. The curving double staircase at the front entrance is supposed to imitate an elephant’s tusks. And when standing on the top balcony, the manicured lawn is shaped like an elephant’s head and large ears. (It was pouring when we were on the second floor of the building, and I never did get a photo of that elephant-shaped lawn!)

We had a “Q&A” session with one of the administrators of the Orphanage, who highlighted how the facility balances its historical colonial roots with the modern demands of caring for approximately 250 vulnerable young boys. Education is a big priority, and the goal of graduating from secondary school, and even university, is shared by many of the boys.

The Giants of Africa court is a state-of-the-art basketball facility on the Orphanage’s premises. It was donated and built by the Giants of Africa Foundation — a youth empowerment organization co-founded by Masai Ujiri, the Vice Chairman and President of the NBA’s Toronto Raptors. The administrator also noted that, in addition to academic success stories, they have also had “superstars” in sports, most notably young men who played on the national football team.

The sparsely furnished classrooms are in the one-story academic wings added to the property over the decades. They serve two purposes: they are the primary school classrooms for the resident boys, but they also provide education to the neighborhood students. This prevents the residents from becoming isolated from society.

A rooster shared the rainy yard with the residents and our tour group.

Following the very educational visit to the orphanage, we returned to Abidjan, once again “flying” along the highways and breezing through intersections, courtesy of our police motorcycle escorts. We felt odd, “pushing in front” of all the local vehicles, but our guide explained these tours wouldn’t be possible without escorts like this, since our 45-minute drive could have taken more than two hours!

Before we returned to the port, we made our last, though abbreviated, stop at the Center Artisanal de la Ville d’Abidjan, or CAVA, the region’s largest open-air handicraft market.

We walked through the artist cooperative, where the large mango trees protected us somewhat from the rain, and shopped for traditional West African souvenirs directly from local artisans. Wood, fabric, leather, paper, metal — all sorts of products were available. But since we only had ten minutes — initially, we were to be there for 30 minutes — we picked up a couple of tiny mementos for my studio altar back home, and then Sherpa went in search of a local beer. Once again, Sherpa relied on the helpfulness of our tour guide, who led him to the beer vendor and then used local currency on his behalf.

After our half-day tour, we returned to the port and the Seven Seas Mariner. Eventually, the rain stopped, and we were able to sit on our balcony and watch as we pulled away from Abidjan, Côte d’Ivoire.

Sherpa enjoyed his Destination Beer on our rain-protected balcony! Bock Beer, a pale lager brewed by Solibra in Abidjan, Côte d’Ivoire. 4.8% ABV.

Sherpa’s Take: “Light-bodied, malty, and smooth. In the beach beer category, — not the complexities of a craft beer that I prefer, but still a very pleasant beverage. Would drink again.” 6/10

All in all, we greatly enjoyed the multi-faceted excursion, even in the rain! Ancient art and traditional dance, modern architecture, a sculpture museum and attached art school, a walk through a botanical garden, a visit to a state-run orphanage, and a stop at an artisan market, plus a drive through neighborhoods and the city center — an excellent introduction to the multifaceted city of Abidjan and nearby Bingerville. Our guides were well-versed in the relevant areas, and also quite good at getting us where we needed to go — not always an easy task. If we were rating this excursion like Sherpa rates his Destination Beers, we’d give it an 8/10. (If we’d had our full 30 minutes at the artist market, it would have been a 9.)

Next stop: Dakar, Senegal

The Portuguese explorers who landed in the country in 1471 named it the Gold Coast. English, Danish, Dutch, and German built their forts (castles ) here to reap the abundant riches. In the 17th century, Frederick William, the Great Elector of Brandenburg, built a fort called Taccarary, which later became known as Takoradi. — Regent

We chose to go on the Twin City of Sekondi-Takoradi excursion, a 3.25-hour, Regent-included tour.

Description: Explore bustling markets, cultural landmarks, and historic sites on this scenic tour of Sekondi and Takoradi, which have been combined as one since 1946. Learn about Ghana’s main exports as you cross the harbor to Takoradi’s Western Gate. Drive through the European-style town of Sekondi, passing aged colonial buildings, the stately High Court, and tree-shaded residential areas. During a stop at the bustling Albert Bosomtwi-Sam Fishing Harbor, watch women buying and preparing the fish and watch nets being repaired. You’ll view Fort Orange’s impressive lighthouse and the Takoradi Market Circle, Western Ghana’s commercial and economic hub. Stop for a spirited cultural show with refreshments at a local hotel and reflect on the distinct personalities of Western Ghana’s thriving twin cities. — Regent website

Our research prior to cruising proved, sadly, true:

Daytime High Temperature: Approximately 86°F.

Nighttime Low Temperature: Around 78°F.

The perceived temperature will be higher due to the high humidity, making it feel “muggy” or oppressive.

Precipitation: May is the wettest month of the year for Takoradi. There is a high probability of rain on an average day in May (around 75% chance). Expect significant rainfall; the average is over 5 inches for the month. The rain usually occurs as heavy downpours or thunderstorms. (So true!)

Sunshine: The weather will be mostly cloudy due to the rainy season. 

Attire: A waterproof jacket or umbrella is essential due to the frequent rain.

Activities: Given the heavy rains, this month holds little appeal for outdoor activities. Focus on planning around potential downpours. (Did we pay attention to this? There really weren’t other excursion options…)

As we drove towards the Albert Bosomtwi-Sam Fishing Harbor, we watched the dark clouds gather on the horizon. We had to take a detour around the city as Ghana has embarked on a massive urban road construction project.

The Albert Bosomtwi-Sam Fishing Harbor is one of only two dedicated fishing harbors in the entire country. It plays a critical role in Ghana's fishing sector, supporting the livelihoods of over 10,000 fishermen and fish traders in the nearby coastal communities. By the time we arrived at the harbor, the rain had begun in earnest.

How hard was it raining? This hard!

Our behind-the-scenes tour of the fish market was cut short. There were no women buying and preparing the fish, no nets being repaired. Everyone had called it quits due to the storm.

The ice-making facilities at the Albert Bosomtwi-Sam Fishing Harbor are a cornerstone of the port’s operations, and are designed to eliminate fish losses and keep catches fresh.

The facility functions as a block-ice plant. Large blocks of ice are manufactured, stored in adjacent insulated units, and then crushed or loaded directly into fishing vessels before they head out to sea.

Although the plant can produce 30 tons of ice daily, the port still experiences ice shortages during peak fishing season. The whole process seems laborious, but it has proven critical to keeping fish as fresh as possible. Since the freshest fish command a higher price, demand for ice is always high.

We passed one of the only sets of railroad tracks in the country. Following Ghana’s independence in 1960, the government focused its limited resources on expanding the roads rather than maintaining the railways. The railways fell into disrepair, and by the early 2000s, almost the entire system had ground to a halt.

The Paa Grant Roundabout is a major intersection and historical landmark. The roundabout featured a statue dedicated to George Alfred “Paa” Grant, an influential merchant, politician, and the founding president of the United Gold Coast Convention.

Our final stop was at the Raybow International Hotel where we enjoyed an outdoor performance by the traditional Folkloric Dance Troupe from the Center for National Culture. (Fortunately, by this time the rains had stopped!)

This troupe, the official regional custodian of Ghanaian folkloric dance, performed regional dances indigenous to the Fante people, as well as traditional music and dance styles belonging to the Akan people of Ghana. Their show was the highlight of the excursion!

We were offered beverages — water or beer — and small cups of plantain chips. Sherpa, of course, took advantage of scoring an easy Destination Beer!

Club Premium Lager is a highly popular light, crisp, refreshing pale lager. Brewed with Danish malt and German Hops, widely known as the “Nation’s Favorite.”

Brewed by Accra Brewery Ltd, this pale lager has 5% ABV. Sherpa’s Take: “Light-bodies. Malty, bright, and crisp, slightly bitter. A bit acidic. Went well with salty snacks.” 5.5/10

And while Sherpa is always on the hunt for a Destination Beer, I’m always looking for signs — small ads on buildings, trucks, bottling plants, vendors, even billboards — of the global monster, Coca-Cola. And I usually find at least one!

In Ghana, I not only found Coca-Cola being served at the hotel where our folkloric show was performed, but I also saw a single sign on our hour-plus return drive to the ship — this “Lovers Inn” sign with Coca-Cola enhancements.

We returned to the ship after nightfall; the deluge that had accompanied most of our tour had abated. After we’d returned to our stateroom and hung all of our wet belongings in the shower to dry, we opened the balcony door and stepped out into the sultry night air. The glow of the lit parking lot cast an eerie pall on the artists and craftsfolk who had been plying their wares all day. We watched many of them pack their tents, tables, and boxes into pick-ups, vans, and station wagons. Sherpa and I recalled the many times we packed our show tent and belongings after a weekend art fair, and our hearts went out to these hardworking souls. It’s never an easy job, the business of selling your art (and heart), but it’s even harder when it’s been a day filled with tumultuous weather.

My past as an art fair artist has certainly influenced my (and Sherpa’s) practice of seeking out artists and their art. We’ve found unusual and inexpensive art almost everywhere we’ve traveled; we’ve supported artists and their practices; and we have a house filled with art sourced from around the globe. Plus, our art collection gives us endless pleasure. It’s a win-win-win!